academic vs activist

Last week I attended the National Environment Meeting at the University of Sydney, hosted by the Sydney Environment Institute, Greenpeace and the Nature Conservation Council of NSW (previous co-hosts were WWF Australia and ACF).

As the title of this year's meeting - Hope in the Dark - suggests, we were coming together to consider some hard realities of the struggling climate movement and the role of activists to provide hope, and remain hopeful, for the public we regularly address.

There were a number of fascinating sessions on environmental justice and sustainability in everyday life (like food and shopping), and the panels included both activists and academics. A key aim of the day was to generate research questions for academics that would provide activists with knowledge they need to effectively campaign.

Aside from the wonderful ideas and debates that I heard, I was stunned to hear during the opening remarks that activists and academics rarely come together.

Really? I thought, truly perplexed.

I'm an academic (in-training, at least) and an activist, and I see the two roles as naturally co-existing. And I know a number of other academics who would also classify themselves as activists. My field was created to address issues of social justice - how are we not activists?

During the end-of-day networking drinks I spoke with a campaigner from a leading NGO who reiterated the differences, and suggested that many of the academics speaking at the event would not be able to help with her work. I thought otherwise, and suggested she consider one-on-one conversations with select academics to discuss her specific research needs.

Look, I get it. Sometimes when a 'non-academic' hears an academic presentation you feel like the person is speaking another language. Like many other professions there are particular norms of writing and presenting ideas in the world of academia (which I haven't quite got my head wrapped around yet, either!). But underneath it all, most researchers working in the fields of sustainability and the environmental humanities truly care about improving the state of the planet and its inhabitants.

So why this separation?

I could probably write a thesis on this subject, but since I have another one to worry about at the moment I'll stop here for now and state that I am proudly an activist and an academic. In my experience, the two roles feed off one another. Higher education opened my mind to issues in the world and spurred me toward activism. And working as an activist raised questions that I need answered to be more effective in my campaigning, leading me back into the hallowed halls of the sandstone institution.

For now I'll leave you with a few images that I regularly use in presentations in both my activism work and my academic work, which may give you additional food for thought about the need to transform the way we make and buy fashion.

Roughly 85% of people working in the fashion industry are women -
a feminist issue if I ever saw one! (Photo: Kowtow)

The UN and WHO estimate that up to 77 million people suffer
pesticide poisoning each year from non-organic cotton cultivation.

2.5 billion tons of wastewater are emitted annually in China alone -
a country that produces more than half of all global textiles.

As of 2005, the average American shopper was buying
69 new items of clothing each year.

See you somewhere along the campaign trail (or lecture theatre).
xLisa

eco warrior wardrobe

Long before I was an eco warrior, I was a corporate warrior. And for awhile there I was a corporate eco warrior (yep, it's a thing!).

Actually, I'm temporarily working at my former beloved workplace, the Green Building Council of Australia (GBCA), where I spent my corporate eco warrior days. And besides the pleasure of spending time with old friends and helping advance the cause of sustainable places for everyone, selfishly I'm loving getting dressed for work every day.

For the past two years I've primarily been in PhD student mode (read: yoga pants at home, denim at uni) . There is the occasional meeting, interview, speaking gig or teaching opportunity, but for the most part my beautiful clothes aren't getting out of the wardrobe as much as I'd like.

Until now.

Well, for the next month anyway, when two days a week are dedicated to the GBCA - and to donning my best corporate eco warrior attire. Here were this week's choices.

A treasured (and comfortable!) favourite that sees a lot of wear,
by ethical American fashion designer Heidi Merrick

A sustainable take on a classic chic look - organic cotton
blouse by KITX, ECA-accredited skirt by Veronika Maine,
and boots by Ginger & Smart (who have ECA-accreditation
on their Australian-made apparel, but these boots were not made in Oz
so I can't be 100% certain on production standards).

What does your work wardrobe look like? How do you achieve sustainability in your workday wear?

Sustainability in the House

The Sydney Opera House, that is.

Earlier this week I set my alarm extra early for a very special date at the Opera House. And though an icy wind whipped through my hair and chilled me to the bone, all my worries were forgotten as I approached our iconic landmark, standing out against the clear blue sky and sparkling harbour. I found myself attempting a selfie alongside the excited tourists, as if I hadn't seen her over a thousand times before.

Whoosh! That wind!

The reason for my special date was the official launch of the Airbnb Sustainability Tour of the Sydney Opera House. Now the public (that's us!) can get beneath the sails of the world's most famous house and not just see backstage, but also see its incredible sustainability initiatives firsthand.

I had the best time!

There were plenty of eco-facts for sustainability geeks like me, an amazing music and lighting display in the Concert Hall, and a behind-the-scenes tour like you've never experienced that included the 'expected' Green Room and staging areas plus the waste management room and seawater cooling towers, among other sites. And there is plenty of opportunity to ask questions of the Sydney Opera House team and chat with fellow sustainability fans.

Airbnb Australia Country Manager Sam McDonagh
Sydney Opera House Director of Building, Greg McTaggart (who retires
next week - thank you for all you've done for the House!)
NSW Parliamentary Secretary for Renewable Energy, Adam Marshall
Credit: Anna Kucera

There I am! Listening to Sydney Opera House Sustainability Manager,
Naomi Martin, our charming hostess for the morning.
Credit: Anna Kucera

Last year the Opera House was granted a 4 Star Green Star - Performance rating by the Green Building Council of Australia (GBCA). You may recall that I've worked for the GBCA, and I know that it is incredibly difficult for older buildings to achieve today's sustainable building standards and earn a Green Star rating, so this is no small feat.

Thanks to Utzon's original design (which included minimal yet durable materials, a pioneering seawater cooling system, and self-cleaning tiles), and the dedicated sustainability and building management teams at the Sydney Opera House, our most cherished house is also an incredibly green house. A couple of the most intriguing stats:

• The Concert Hall lighting system - which you see in action during the tour - was replaced with all LED lights with multiple colour setting, including 'heritage lighting' for those who like their symphony old school. As a result, there was a 75% reduction in energy requirements, a cost savings of $70,000 per year in electricity alone. And because the lights last much longer, they have to be changed less frequently, cutting down on labour costs and waste. 
• Waste Management - the House went from 2 waste streams to eight recycling streams including co-mingled (glass, plastics & cans), paper, cardboard, lightbulbs, e-waste, polystrene. They also work with OzHarvest to collect uneaten but still edible food, and compost other food waste. (Seriously, if the Opera House has figured this out - can't we all?)
  
  

More of those amazing lights. And once the music began - magic.
Credit: Anna Kucera

Airbnb came on board to sponsor the tours - making a connection between the sustainability benefits of choosing Airbnb over traditional hotels. Country Manager Sam McDonagh explained, "We're proud to launch this sustainability tour in partnership with the Sydney Opera House to further inspire locals and visitors to be more environmentally aware by learning about the sustainable practices for the world's most famous house."

Also in attendance at the event were Airbnb superhosts who are passionate about sustainability in their homes, as well as sustainable home 'royalty', Off-the-Grid guy Michael Mobbs, who owns the  Sustainable House in Chippendale.

That's Michael Mobbs in the hat - he's been off the grid for decades,
and right in the heart of Sydney!
Credit: Anna Kucera

If you have any interest at all in sustainability or the Sydney Opera House, this is an incredible opportunity. The tours run at 8am on Tuesday mornings for a limited time until 29 November 2016. Head over to the Sydney Opera House website to book now before it books out!

And if you need any final convincing, you get a super cute
Frank Green SmartCup, because disposable cups are SO last century.

global change award take two

My fascination with H&M and sustainability continues . . .

Are they are a fast fashion mega-retailer merely seeking the largest financial bottom line? Are they true sustainability champions? Can high-volume fashion stores ever be 'sustainable', no matter what fabrics are used?

One thing is for certain, H&M support sustainability innovations that have the potential to transform the fashion industry in a way I don't see from any other international fashion brand, and that's enough to keep my interest piqued.

H&M have recently launched the second generation of their Global Change Awards with a focus on supporting a circular fashion industry. This year the Awards are accepting applications for:

• Circular business models covering ideas on how to reuse, repair, share, digitalize or extend the life of products
• Circular materials looking for ideas on new fibres, recycling techniques, leather substitutes, etc.
• Circular processes aiming to find new methods around chemicals, water and dyeing, as well as 3D printing, demand-driven manufacturing, etc. 

Applications are open to anyone, and they encourage early innovations and ideas. Five winning applicants will be selected by a panel of expert judges, and they will share a 1 million euro grant and participate in an 'innovation accelerator' program with the H&M Foundation in partnership with Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm.

Last year brought 2,700 entries, but I suspect this year will bring even more now that they are looking beyond technological advances and are welcoming ideas around business models as well. (Hmmm, maybe I'll submit an idea . . .)

If you have a brilliant innovation bubbling away in your mind, get your application in before the end of October. I'd love to see a SWS reader's name up in lights, and to see your ideas brought to life in a way that can transition this industry in need of change.

Find all the details on their website - and good luck!

woman versus machine

Earlier this year the World Economic Forum released a report to help us prepare for the Fourth Industrial Revolution, marked by "development in genetics, artificial intelligence, robotics, nanotechnology, 3D printing and biotechnology". 

The future is here!

So I suppose it shouldn't have come as a surprise to hear a story on Planet Money (I adore podcasts, lifesavers for my long commutes) titled "The Sewing Robot", talking about SoftWear, the company that may have created automating sewing.

Image copyright SoftWear Automation

Machines have taken over manufacturing jobs since the first Industrial Revolution, including the fashion industry with the introduction of mechanised looms replacing the labour-intensive practice of weaving textiles by hand. However, the actual sewing together of garments has remained in the hands of skilled people - machinists - who sew each and every garment we wear today. All the seams, all the zippers, all the buttons and button holes, all touched by human hands.

It makes sense when you think about it - fabric is flimsy, soft, slippery and flexible, it can easily become bunched up or shift position on the machine, even when the most skilled hands are involved. How can machines ever compare with the quick-thinking and reactive hands of a talented sewer? That's exactly what SoftWear is trying to figure out.

I'll let you listen to the podcast yourself to hear all the details, but this story raised so many questions in my mind about what this would mean for the fashion industry and for our relationship with clothing, I just had to write about it.

Of course I know technology creates wonderful advances (hello Blogger!), but there is no hiding from the fact that when robots move into factories, humans move out.

Though it is incredibly hard to track the exact figure, there is an estimated 58 million people employed in apparel and textile manufacturing. Most of them are women, and most of them are located in developing countries. Garment manufacturing is one of the easiest businesses to begin due to the low cost of entry, and is one of the primary industries found in counties in the early stages of development. It's hard to know exactly what jobs will replace the hands-on work of sewing in these regions with little availability for re- or up-skilling should machines truly take over this role.

Image copyright ALAS

Also, I love knowing that my clothing was made by people. For years I didn't pay much attention to the 'Made In' tags on my clothes, but I do now, and I know that real people sewed my clothing. And because of my commitment to sustainable and ethical fashion, I'm starting to get a clearer picture of who these people are. Labels like Carlie Ballard, ALAS, Cloth & Co, Threads of Peru, and IOU all provide incredible detail about who made their fashion, and Fashion Revolution has opened up the doors to factories sewing global fashion brands through the #WhoMadeMyClothes campaign.

Some of the talented women making Carlie Ballard pieces.

In this age of blossoming radical transparency from fashion brands, I don't know that I'm ready to say goodbye to the personal touch of hand sewn garments. I'm just beginning to understand and make connections. And surely there is something lost when a machine takes over an artisan skills like handweaving?

Me wearing my stunning - handwoven - Threads of Peru scarf

Does this make me a luddite? Pining for a romantic past that was never really was? Or too optimistic, thinking we can make affordable clothing that is safe and respectful for workers around the world?

Should we embrace technology, knowing that at last no one is being harmed or treated unfairly to make our clothing? Or should we fight to keep some traditions even if it means (gasp!) inefficiencies and lower productivity than a machine would enable?

What do you think?

And just because it's a beautiful reminder that, at least for now, many people's hands make our clothing, enjoy (re)watching this short clip c/o EcoAge, Handprint.

teaching the teachers

While Hillary Clinton was busy kicking her own #careergoals today (#imwithher, in case there was any doubt), I was experiecning my own career highlight - presenting on sustainable fashion to a conference of high school design and textile teachers.

Some of my slides discussing challenges, innovations, and leading sustainable fashion brands.

Those who know me well know how much I value education (and I suppose the fact that I'm midway through a PhD program would be a clue to others!). I was always the one sitting in the front row raising her hand, and I didn't count down the days until school let out for summer. And while I was between careers (you don't go from marketing to environmentalist overnight!) and working as a temp, my favourite gig was at a Catholic girls' school in Sydney. Though I could have worked at any number of temp jobs in convenient location of the CBD, I opted for the extra long commute and the hallowed halls of learning.

It was during that temp job that I saw firsthand the energy and commitment of teachers and other school administrators. Sitting amongst them in the tea room and assisting them with administrative tasks was an experience I'll not soon forget. I don't mean to paint all teachers as saints, but the vast majority cared more deeply about teaching and their students than I'd ever imagined, and my respect for teachers grew exponentially during those few months.

So when I was called to be a guest speaker at the conference, I jumped at the opportunity.

Anytime I can talk about sustainable fashion or lifestyles, I do it. I suppose that's my role in the activist world. But I felt privileged to be asked to teach the teachers what I know about this fascinating and evolving world of sustainable fashion. Through their lesson plans and sparks of inspiration they are training the next generation of fashion designers and producers who have exciting challenges ahead as the industry transitions to more sustainable modes of production. It's no small feat we task teachers with today, I suspect they'll rise to the challenge. It's what they do.

So today I did my best to share insights, knowledge and ideas with those people working the front lines of shaping the future of fashion. I hope I got an A . . .

xxLisa

Eco luxury or extravagant greenwash

A tree-saving tale 

I typically don't 'call out' brands on this blog for doing the wrong thing, but I had to share with you the most extreme case of greenwashing I'd seen in awhile (a discussion on greenwash follows this tale).

I was contacted by a wooden watch company asking me to write an article about their latest product in exchange for a watch valued between $1000 and $5000 (this price point was the first red flag). The key selling point? They were going to, and I quote, "Take down the world's oldest tree", Old Tjikko, who resides on Fulufjället Mountain in Sweden.

Yes, you read that correctly - they wanted me to write about a watch made from killing the world's oldest tree - currently aged 9,558 years.

Between you and me - I don't know that this tree could
even make 500 watches! Old Tjikko is part of a clonal
system, meaning that even if the trunk dies, the roots
are still alive and a new trunk can grow. He is also playing
an important role in some climate change research.

Look, I get it, wooden things are made of trees. But no conservationist in her right mind would propose using an old growth tree for making consumer goods. And why in the world would a company contact an environmentalist to spruik a product made from a tree that is over 9,500 years old?!

After I made sure the media release was not dated April Fool's Day, I wrote back to the company asking for more details on why Old Tjikko was coming down, admitting that I was quite shocked to read that this was their plan. I suppose I was hoping that perhaps Old Tjikko was dying and being cut down anyway, and that the company wasn't just trying to make some cash off of what they perceived to be a lucrative opportunity (because whether I like it or not, there is definitely a market who wants products with this type of notoriety).

The response I received from the company was another head scratcher - without telling me anything about why Old Tjikko was coming down, they wrote of the substantial "regulatory hurdles" and that they planned on going to environmental court the next month. Also telling me "I hope to have some good news for you over the coming weeks".

Good news for me would mean the tree was not being cut down . . .

I gave them one more chance and asked again what the reason was to 'take down' Old Tjikko. In response I received more of the same, with the added bonus of being told how much they've already paid in legal fees ($100,000USD), that they expect to go to court at the end of the month, and how much they expect to spend in legal fees altogether ($670,000USD). All of this to produce 500 custom watches.

But don't worry, they plan on planting 100 new trees for each watch sold.

BUT WHY ARE YOU KILLING THE WORLD'S OLDEST TREE?!

At this point I was incredibly irritated and took to the internet to find out what I could about the tree.

Thanks to the magic of Google, a good Swedish friend, and a kind Swedish artist who has spent time with Old Tjikko, I got in touch with a representative at the forest. He was as shocked and appalled as I was - well, probably a great deal more, to be honest - and over the course of the day I received three emails from him assuring me that Old Tjikko is well protected and not coming down, that his boss agreed the tree was well protected, and that his boss checked with her boss at the Swedish EPA who also confirmed there was no way Old Tjikko was coming down (particularly not to make watches).

"As the tree is within the national park, it is protected for all foreseeable future."

I cannot even express the relief I felt at learning this news. I think with all the troubles in the world right now (with greedy companies taking advantage of people who want to save the planet just a tiny part of the problem), I really needed to hear some good news and to know that there are true environmentalists doing the hard work of protecting nature from the likes of this watch company.

Feeling like a tree-saving sleuth, I eventually emailed the wooden watch company and told them that my environmentalist values had led me to contact the forest representatives and what I had learned about the protected nature of Old Tjikko.

I also told them that, "At any rate, I cannot in good conscience support the cutting down of this tree to make any product unless there is a sound reason to do so, which there does not appear to be."

Within a day, the media release announcing this product was off their wesbite and the Wikipedia page of Old Tjikko was returned to normal (some 'marketing genius' from the company had added a sentence to the page stating that the company was going to make watches from the tree).

So . . . the moral of the story? I guess there are a few.

• Beware of greenwashing, it's everywhere (and usually not as blatant as this example)
• If something doesn't seem right to you, ask about it. And ask about it again. And if you're still not satisfied, don't buy the product. For every decent, well-intentioned brand, unfortunately there are many more willing to scam you, and the good brands have no trouble being transparent.
• Love old growth trees - and perhaps plan a trip to Sweden. You may not get to see Old Tjikko, he's very well protected, but it's nice to know he has some serious guardians protecting him from the likes of this watch company.

I decided not to tell you the name of the company here, though if you tried hard enough I'm sure  you'd find it (the media release is still on other news pages). They claim to plant a tree for each of their current range of wooden watches, but those watches aren't made of sustainably sourced wood, either. So if you're truly in the market for an eco-friendly wooden watch, stick with the original WeWood, and feel good about your decision. And don't reward blatant greenwashing and attempts to make a quick buck off your environmental values.

* * * *

I never heard from the watch company again, so I can only assume their motives were purely financial whether they actually used Old Tjikko or just wanted to create hype with a media release talking about it in this way. I feel very confident this company is not about the environment but about their bank accounts and an attempt to take advantage of the so-called 'cashed up green consumer'.

It's reported that 'green' consumers will pay 10-20% more for products that have an environmental benefit, as those who endeavour to live a green lifestyle know all too well. There are multiple conferences dedicated to promoting products to this group of shoppers, 'sustainability' experts who are really just green marketing experts, and as a dedicated environmentalist, I often feel I'm fending off greenwashing attacks at every turn. Becoming a writer and a blogger has made this all the more apparent.

Sometimes it's worth it - I'm happy to pay more so the person sewing my clothes is paid a fair wage and works in a safe factory, or that my produce is organic and free of toxins. Other times it can feel like a scam, as in the case of this 'eco luxury' wooden watch and other goods painted with a similar 'green' hue but not created with environmental values at their core.

But at the end of the day, I know that living a green lifestyle is less expensive than my previous mode of existence mostly because I don't buy what I don't need or love - so these greenwashers can't touch me

* * * *

What is greenwashing?

In short, it's when companies claim to be more environmentally-friendly than they really are - and it's everywhere. There are some great articles about the '7 sins of Greenwashing', including one by my friend Robin Mellon at Better Sydney, which describe the varying degrees of greenwashing:

• The hidden trade off
• No proof
• Vagueness
• Worshipping false labels
• Irrelevance
• Lesser of two evils
• Fibbing

This watch company was using a mixture - the hidden trade off (planting new trees though cutting down an old growth tree), vagueness (no information about the wood used in their current range of watches), worshipping false labels (planting trees with a certified company though not using certified wood to create watches), fibbing (probably . . .)

Have you been greenwashed lately? I'd love to hear about it . . . we can vent with each other.
xxLisa

Also, a special thanks to Robin, who was an excellent support and sounding board during this stressful time of Old Tjikko - thank you!