Recently I contributed to a new website, Fire Feels: Telling politicians how we feel about the 2019/2020 bushfiresI heard about the site from one of the founders (and my colleague!) who led a climate grief workshop last month.
This important site was created in the wake of this summer's horrific fires as a means of communicating your grief, rage, horror and shock to our politicians. It actually originated between two friends writing to one another about how they were feeling, and then realising that our politicians - the ones who have the power to make the dramatic, systemic changes we need to decarbonise and to value nature - should hear how we feel. Instead of 'staying calm', we should tell them how we feel.
So without further ado, below is the letter I wrote to my MP, Zali Steggall
To Zali Steggall: I had hoped never to experience this fear and grief
I have been a climate activist and working in sustainable development for over a decade. The scenes from the bush fires have brought out fear and grief that I had been hoping never to experience – and fighting for others not to experience – for so many years. I attended a climate grief workshop to help me start to address these feelings, during which I drew the following two pictures.
One is the scene I just can’t get out of my head of standing on a fairly isolated beach in Broken Bay with my two year-old son as the sky was golden-orange and ash-flakes snowed down upon us. There were children in the water who were laughing and playing, trying to catch the ashes with a goal of catching the biggest one possible. Did they know what it was? It was a very apocalyptic scene. It was very hard to accept that it was really happening, and we were not even in the worst of the fire zones.
The other is a representation of how I feel – sad and frozen, but also angry. I’m just waiting for that anger to thaw me out of my frozen state so I can start flowing and acting (and activisting!) again.
I know that you are committed to climate action, I voted and campaigned for you because of it. I am writing to remind you of how urgently Australia needs to take bold action. I will stand behind your climate efforts, but also push you for more brave and robust efforts for the sake of the future and younger generations.
The Australian bushfires have left a
wake of devastation across the country, and the fires blaze on. Greater
Sydney has experienced numerous apocalyptic days over the past few months but –
aside from people with respiratory and cardiovascular issues – we are the lucky
ones. Our homes still stand. Our businesses and jobs are in tact. We even had
(nearly) blue skies over the Christmas break, making it possible to momentarily
forget about the destruction of our beautiful country. But one whiff of smoky
haze or quick social media check wrenches us back to reality.
Sometimes I think, “Well, soon
all of the national parkland will be burnt and so at least the fires will
stop.” Some sort of twisted rationale my mind has come up with to help deal
with what is happening. Willing the smoke, the haze, the ash, the constant
reminders that our nation burns as the climate fiercely changes, willing all of it, to stop. But I know it
won’t, not yet, this is early bushfire season in Australia.
In actual fact, estimates suggest nearly half of all the country’s
forests will have burnt by the time this bushfire season is over. Half.
How do we even wrap our heads around what this means in terms of habitat and
wildlife loss? Greenhouse gas emissions? People’s livelihoods? The Australian
bush is varied, diverse, and so incredibly beautiful. Although I grew up in
another incredibly beautiful part of the world (hello Rocky Mountains!), it
wasn’t until I moved to Australia that I truly fell in love with the natural
world. The bush is a place of magic and wonder, and I crave immersing myself in
the forests on a regular basis. I haven’t yet ventured toward any burnt areas, safe in my urban
beachside bubble, but accounts from people flying over the smouldering land and
driving through the scorched earth are bracing me for a barren and blackened
landscape, unrecognizable from the bush I know and love.
It’s near impossible, to
imagine what the people who live in these areas of the country and have lost
everything – their homes, businesses, possessions, even loved ones – are
experiencing. There are beautiful and powerful written accounts, like this one
by author Jackie French who
praises the leaders who have emerged in place of our nation’s so-called
leaders, that start to put into perspective what life has been like these past
couple of months. And many others who highlight the very long, unknown, road to recovery for so many of these communities that have been decimated by the fires.
Like so many Australians, I’ve felt
powerless in terms of what I can do to help. I have gladly donated
money, knowing that is what is most needed right now, but it can feel like it’s
not enough. There’s an ache to get out and be useful, and yet how can I be
useful in a time like this? It’s dangerous. Fires still blaze. I have zero
emergency skills, unlike the firefighters* and other first responders who are
(as they so often are) the saviours of the nation.
There are, however, many clearheaded
people who have already sprung into action and offer ways to be
involved. Some of the initiatives that have
caught my attention include:
Knitting and sewing for wildlife – mittens, pouches, possum boxes, nests, and more. Thousands of people from around the world are putting their knitting and sewing skills to help injured and orphaned animals recover. The Animal Rescue Craft Guild has more information on what is needed and patterns to help you create the needed items.
ThreadTogether is an initiative that collects unworn/unsold items from retailers to distribute to people in need. They have ramped up their efforts in the wake of the crisis to collect even more for those communities impacted directly. If you are a designer or retailer with unsold items, get in touch with them ASAP.
Go with Empty Eskies campaign, a viral facebook post by Tegan Webber that urges us to head to the regions as soon as its safe and buy all the food and drinks (and everything!) we need from those communities.
Spend with Them Instagram campaign, partly inspired by the Empty Eskies campaign, which highlights businesses in effected areas that need our dollars to keep afloat. If you are in the market for something, why not start there?
Authors for Fireys is a Twitter auction that channels funds directly to the firefighters with authors from around the world auctioning signed books, character namings, lunch dates, workshops and more. I haven’t put my hand up for this only because my book is old
news, but I'll try and get myself organised (it ends tomorrow!) to offer a sustainable fashion workshop in exchange for donations.
Hearts on Fire instagram auction of experiences from fashion, food, travel and the arts to raise money. Incredible things up for auction here!
Yesterday more than 45 Australian retailers participated in the "All In" campaign, donating 100% of their profits to the Red Cross bushfire campaign. It was good timing for me - I needed some new work clothing so spent it all with the Iconic (which is also going to be offering its warehouse to store donated items over coming months to assist the charities that have been inundated with goods).
It’s hard to know what to write, and
how to respond, except to say that I’m heartbroken, saddened, frightened and
angry. I’ll continue to do what I can, to act thoughtfully yet forcefully for
change. I’ll be at the protests today in Sydney, hope to see some of you there,
too.
I still wholeheartedly believe in those options. And - despite what the rest of this post may suggest - I really do love the holiday season. Love it. There is nothing better than enjoying delicious food and the company of loved ones under the twinkle of fairy lights. As an added bonus, living in Sydney means that Christmas is the perfect excuse for an extended summer break at the beach. Bring. It. On.
But this year, instead of hoping santa brings me a gorgeous sustainable frock and fretting over the 'perfect' gift for my loved ones, I want something bigger. I want a revolution. I want a seismic cultural and political shift to address the growing climate crisis. It's not too much to ask, is it?
My state is literally on fire. Look at these photos. That extended summer break I mentioned before will likely be spent indoors to escape the hazardous smoke pollution which periodically blankets the city. The fires have come so early and so fiercely that fire chiefs are making public declarations about climate change and begging the government to address the climate crisis. And what does our Prime Minister do? Offers platitudes, thoughts & prayers, naively comments that volunteer firefighters don't need to be paid becausethey "want to be there" and uses the opportunity of our nationwide distraction to axe the federal arts department and splitting the energy and environment portfolios into other, larger, portfolios, all but ensuring climate change doesn't get a look in. Shame.
Halfway around the world other world leaders are meeting for the annual COP climate talks. I freely admit to being particularly ambivalent about the talks this year. Which is unfair - many people work tirelessly in the lead up and throughout the talks to convince nations to make binding agreements to emissions reductions. But from my perspective (and at least one top scientist) it just looks like we've had these talks for over 20 years and global emissions are rising year on year. Countries including Australia and the United States shirk responsibility and forfeit the opportunity to become climate leaders. And remind me, how many people took an international flight (and how many business class, or private planes) to attend the talks? Not Greta, obviously, and though it doesn't make a dent in the grand scheme of greenhouse gas emissions, it does have an impact on the power of one's activism and leads to systemic change.
So needless to say, this holiday season I'm distracted. Instead of teaching my toddler about the magic of the season I'm fretting about his future. I don't want the champagne and baubles and bonbons - well, not as much as I usually do, anyway. I don't have the energy to handcraft gifts and I don't feel the same joy listening to Mariah Carey's "Merry Christmas" album as in previous years. I want global leaders to act just as that - leaders - and to take the bold actions necessary to halt the worst of the project climate disasters. We are seeing too frequent glimpses of them already, and frankly, it's terrifying.
But I hear you. You want a list. You want a guide for an ethical holiday season, so here it is:
Change your household energy to 100% renewable energy. There are multiple affordable options available making this option more attainable than ever.
Divest your retirement/superannuation. There are a variety of funds options that do not invest in fossil fuel companies but do have competitive returns. Make your money work for the future you want.
Ask your workplace about their own energy and investment plans, and work with them to make the necessary changes if not enough is being done.
Contact your politicians. Relentlessly. Let them know the climate is a top concern of yours, and if it's not theirs they will not get your vote.
Volunteer your time.
Donate your money. This year there are a variety of bushfire appeals including for Fire Services and wildlife rehabilitation. If any of my loved ones want to know what to get me, please do this for me.
Connect with others. Build your community and look after those who need some extra care.
Rest as much as you can, we have a lot of work to do in 2020.
For a long time the uptake of sustainable fashion could best be described as a slow burn. There was a constant increase in interest, but it moved at a snail's pace. Sustainable fashion designers struggled to make ends meet, with many working for the passion they felt as activists rather than for the money. And on a personal level, many people raised an eyebrow at my research and questioned whether it was really worth investigating.
Fast forward to 2019 and sustainability is trending, and it's making me worried.
In fact it was a Veja-spotting that inspired me to write today.
I was on the bus home from work this week, holding onto the swinging handle for dear life as the bus took a sharp turn, when I spotted a pair of Vejas on a young woman seated near me. A quick scan and I saw she'd paired those white sneakers with some jeans, a Gucci crossbody handbag, a white Tommy Hilfiger teeand some lovely large gold hoop earrings. A few days later I saw another chic woman wearing Vejas with a long silk skirt and tee and a stunning oversized Dior tote. For all I know these designer additions were quality vintage or
consignment pieces, but I'm going to make the assumption based on their
pristine appearances that they were not.
I've read plenty of articles - scholarly and mass media - talking about sustainable fashion being a status symbol. And there is a lot of weight to the argument that sustainable fashion is primarily available for the upper middle class. These young women personified these criticisms in a way I hadn't yet seen in person.
I don't mean to point fingers at these ladies and blame them for the state of fashion today. However, seeing these bright young things wearing some of the world's most sustainable sneakers with trendy designer pieces demonstrated something I've been suspecting and fearing for awhile...we may be raising general awareness, but nothing is really changing.
Sure, sustainable fashion is so hot right now. More and more people actually know what it is. It's being written about in the pages of Vogue on a regular basis. There are podcasts, blogs, websites, online shops and sustainable stylists and designers all working to raise awareness of the issues and shed light on alternatives. But the fact that designer labels decided to adopt it for their latest runway shows makes me feel we are just swimming in circles, so does seeing a stylish woman who is matching sustainable sneakers with designer labels.
Fashion Editor Vanessa Friedman has an incredible critique in the New York Timesabout this current turn toward sustainability during the most recent Fashion Weeks. Of her many compelling arguments one that stood out to me was the fact that just last year the brands were addressing the repercussions from the #MeToo movement, and this year some models are reporting it's worse than ever.
In addition, fast fashion continues to pervail, despite some
positive signs it was crumbling (like Forever21 filing for bankruptcy,
mainly due to not being able to compete on style with H&M and Zara).
Zara profits remain high and growing, with plans for worldwide online sales from next year. H&M recently announced its first increase in profits in two years and continue grow their store numbers to more than 5,000 around the world - it also has plans for further online reach in the years to come. More garments will be produced this year than last, and the same thing will happen next year again.
The fashion system is broken, and has been
for a long time. It relies on constant renewal to survive, and it relies
on us buying into new styles season after season, year after year, and
so it injects billions of dollars into marketing to ensure that we make
those purchases. In
other words, just because people know about something - even the fast
fashion companies themselves, which are making promises toward
sustainable fabrics and transparent processes - doesn't mean the problem
is solved. As long as clothes continue to be designed and produced at these fast rates in vast quantities, it cannot be sustainable. As long as labels want me to buy their new collection each season, or even each year, it cannot be sustainable. Until we can curtail this system that generates constant desire, it cannot be sustainable.
So there, I've said it. I've been thinking it for awhile, and there it is. For all the incredible work my fellow sustainable fashion activists have done over the past decade, particularly the past five or six years, the system remains firmly in tact. I know that progress has been made and I don't want sustainable fashion designers or activists to feel like their work has been for nothing, because it has undoubtedly shifted the conversation. But I feel an increased sense of urgency that just isn't being addressed but the launches of new sustainable fashion lines and the embrace of sustainability on major Fashion Week catwalks. It all feels like more greenwashing to me.
A few years ago, seeing two pair of Vejas in one week would have filled me with glee. Unfortunately, knowing what I know now, it fills me with dread. It appears they are being used as a status symbol, a recognisable and coveted name brand, that may even assuage guilt of some people about the dismal state of the climate and the planet.
So yeah, sustainable fashion is so hot right now. What will be so hot next year? (besides the planet, obvs).
It's hard to believe it's been six years since the deadly Rana Plaza collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh, claimed the lives of 1,138 garment workers, most of them young women.
On the one hand, the perils (and realities) of garment production are incredibly well known. It's not uncommon for people to joke about their clothing "probably being made in a sweatshop", followed by uncomfortable laughter. Whether the Nike scandal of the 1990s springs to mind, images of scruffy children working in the first textile factories of the Industrial Revolution, or the below image of Rana Plaza, somehow we have come to accept that our clothing is made under terrible conditions.
There are so many reasons why this has come to be. The physical and (often) cultural disconnect between the people who make our clothes and ourselves is a primary reason why we can push these images out of our minds when buying new clothing. Not to mention the impact of advertising, fashion promotion, and the mode and speed of consumption which is completely ingrained in our culture and provides further reason to disconnect.
But...things are changing.
This is Fashion Revolution Week, a time to reflect on who makes our clothes, question brands on their production methods, and learn new ways of using and consuming clothing (which are often old ways!). The Fashion Revolution campaign started on the one-year anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse, and since then has grown into an international phenomenon (so much so that I am giving a lecture on its impact as part of a "Hashtag Activism" class at Sydney Uni next month).
Since the campaign launched in 2014 countless events and activities have occurred that are shaking up the fashion industry. Alongside the #WhoMadeMyClothes social media campaign have been clothes swaps, film screenings, clothing repair workshops, panel discussions, op shop tours and more. And the industry is taking note. There is increasing transparency from fashion brands worldwide, particularly at the final stage of production (this is the location that is noted on your clothing tag as the "Made In" country).
Look, as Fashion Revolution points out, the industry is far from transparent. In their first Transparency Index in 2017 the average level of transparency was 21% (see all the details and methodology on their website). But in 2018 when they measured again, there had been a 5% improvement, which is fantastic.
Similarly, the Ethical Fashion Report by Baptist World Aid has demonstrated some movement in the industry. While there is vast room for improvement, as this article by Pepperminthighlights, the pressure put on fashion brands by consumers and the media is having a positive impact.
But this progress will only continue if we continue to agitate. We can't stop asking #WhoMadeMyClothes? We can't stop thinking about our clothing consumption choices, and wondering why we are buying what we buy. We can't become complacent about what materials are used in our clothing, or under what conditions they are created. As I mentioned to my students last week, changing this industry is like turning a giant boat - progress may feel slow, but continued effort is genuinely having an impact, so we have to keep pushing.
Engage with brands on social media by taking a photo of your clothing, tag the brands you are wearing and ask them "#WhoMadeMyClothes?
Write a letter to a brand asking them about production, and what changes they are making for worker safety & pay, as well as environmental improvements.
Write to a policy maker asking for stronger support of ethical fashion production.
Write a love story to one of your pieces of clothing and share it online.
Participate in a #haulternative by swapping, op shopping or repairing your clothing.
If you are local in Australia (or New Zealand!) check out all the events happening in our region on the local Facebook Page.
I'll be participating at a panel on the 4th of May called "Rethink your wardrobe" (a bit after Fash Rev week, but let's keep this Revolution going, right?!) at Petersham Town Hall - looks like quite a line up and will be a fabulous swap!
What are you going to do for Fashion Revolution Week?
I was recently asked for my predictions for ethical fashion in 2017.
It's a tough question. It's like being asked to look into the future when we all know that there is no 'sure thing' in life. Just look at the 2016 US Presidential election predictions; all the so-called 'experts' and political pundits were so very wrong, and many of them have more years experience in politics than I have in sustainable fashion. Because the truth is, we just never know what is coming around the corner, and it's hard to know what we don't know.
Sure, I have some expertise in ethical fashion, especially regarding consumer habits, social movements and the workings of fashion businesses. But I don't know what is currently under development in innovation labs, which labour market may take a leap forward, what budding changemakers will graduate design school this year, or which governmental regulations will be proposed that dramatically impact production, trade, or consumption of fashion.
So I'd rather we use the term 'hope-predictions', instead. This term encompasses recognition of my expertise, my optimism for the future, plus a healthy dose of acceptance that I don't have all the answers.
Lisa's 2017 hope-predictions for Sustainable Fashion
2017 will
bring more growth in the sustainable fashion sector, particularly from
entrepreneurs and new businesses who recognise the vast consumer demand
for ethical, transparent and planet-friendly fashion. I think we will
continue to see design progress both in terms of aesthetic styling as
well as innovations such as zero/less-waste patterning, upscaling the
practice of upcycling, more fabric innovations, and more engagement with
the sharing economy. The trend toward small-run artisanal and bespoke
pieces will also continue as more individuals choose to hone their
personal style and focus on curating a somewhat minimal, yet still
unique and fashion-forward, wardrobe.
The
major brands will continue making shifts be less unsustainable by
experimenting with sustainable fabrics and/or improving transparency in
their supply chains. There is enormous potential for the larger labels
to make significant positive impacts throughout the supply chain, yet
consumers and activists should maintain pressure on these companies to encourage firms to change faster than they
may think is possible. The major brands that are able to make bold steps
and communicate them openly and transparently will be rewarded by the
growing group of ethical consumers who care deeply about these issues.
In light of global political events, 2017 will bring
increased activism throughout society as people brimming with
frustration seek outlets for their desire to create change. Enacting
values through lifestyle and consumption choices will play a major role
for many citizens because this is something we each have individual
control over. This should manifest itself (to an extent) in the sustainable fashion movement, which will encourage everyone -
from start-ups to established brands - to continue towards sustainable
fashion practices. Activism is always more fun (and
effective!) when done with others, and NGOs and other groups working in
this space should grasp the opportunity to facilitate larger scale
projects with this group of engaged and energised citizens at this unique point in history.
What do you think?
Do you agree? Disagree? Have anything to add?
Leave a comment below - I'd love to hear your hope-predictions at this fascinating time for ethical and sustainable fashion.
This past weekend, in cities all around the globe, hundreds of thousands of people marched for climate action ahead of the United Nations climate summit in Paris.
Looking across the crowd to the stage in the Domain
photo: Stephen Blake
I participated in the People's Climate March in Sydney yesterday - me and 60,000 of my dearest Sydney friends!
Me and Ty on the right, with our friends James (left) and Yatu (to my left)
and Yatu's parents, who have been taking Yatu to marches since she was a
wee little thing. They once dressed her in a shirt that read
"I want to grow up, not blow up"to protest nuclear energy. It was
amazing to be with such dedicated and experienced protestors!
Compared to the first climate march that I attended in Sydney (which I wrote about in my book, it must have been in 2008 or 2009), yesterday's march was of epic proportions, at least 10 times the size, and representing a much wider diversity of people from all corners of Sydney (and potentially farther afield).
Many Indigenous cultures were represented at the rally, and those wearing red
were representing people already on the frontlines of climate change.
photo: Stephen Blake
Photo: Stephen Blake
The rally began in the Domain and included a number of speeches and performances, including 1 Million Women's new song, "I am the Voice"*, and the always-inspirational Tim Flannery.
We all participated in a minute of silence in honour of those already facing
the impact of climate change, and then march officially began following
the playing of didgeridoo. Photo: Stephen Blake
As the temperatures creeped higher - and the predicted thunderstorms failed to appear - the march began underneath Sydney sunshine and we benefited from the delicious breeze coming up from Sydney Harbour. Organised by colour - dress for your climate change passion - there was no shortage of music, dancing, chanting, signs and costumes, and there was an overall sense of community amongst our fellow Sydneysiders.
Photo: Stephen Blake
Photo: Stephen Blake
Clover Moore spoke at the start of the rally
Photo: Stephen Blake
Any excuse to wear an animal onesie, right?
Photo: Stephen Blake
Many people participating were protesting other social justice causes, too.
Photo: Stephen Blake
These beautiful girls represented 'Our common home', sporting green
in honour of all the species on planet Earth.
Photo: Stephen Blake
And speaking for myself, I felt enormous gratitude about living in a country that allows peaceful protests like this one, pride in my fellow citizens who turned out in huge numbers, and increased optimism about the future.
Photo: Stephen Blake
I love this not-so-subtle use of parental guilt.
Photo: Stephen Blake
'Stop polluting' - couldn't have said it better myself.
Photo: Stephen Blake
There's still so much work to do, and I hope that the world's political leaders make meaningful and impactful agreements over the next two weeks in Paris. But whatever happens at the Climate Summt, the People of the world have spoken. An increasing number of us are determined to shift towards a future based on clean energy, a fairer economic system and a healthier environment for all the planet's inhabitants. As the rally cry from yesterday's march exclaimed:
from here on in, we're all in.
It's not just for hippies anymore!
Photo: Stephen Blake
But what would a climate rally be without them?
Photo: Stephen Blake
Were you at a People's Climate event this weekend? I'd love to hear about it!
* * * *
A special THANK YOU to Stephen Blake for letting me use his amazing photographs in today's blog post - I only had my phone and was too busy chanting to take photos. He captured the atmosphere perfectly.
*A cleaver re-write of the Australian John Farnham classic "You're the Voice"
Last night I saw the film This Changes Everything, and was reminded about the power of people and the importance of activism.
Loving the revolutionary graphics on the movie poster
Naomi Klein opens her film with a confession - that she sort of hates environmentalist movies, and is tired of seeing polar bears struggling to find a bit of ice, like this:
image credit: endangeredpolarbear.com
Klein has been a longtime role model of mine and I was delighted to hear that she and I feel the same way about these polar bears.
Of course I love polar bears, and am devastated about what is happening to their natural habitat, and yet - as Klein highlights in the film - their world could not be more different from the world I live in, and the time has come to change the story about how we talk about, and deal with, climate change.
This film is directed by Avi Lewis, is inspired by Klein's book of the same title*, and is meant to move away from scaring people or making us feel guilty, and instead to help us feel empowered. As far as I'm concerned - job well done.
Klein on the ground in New York copyright Ed Kashi
Throughout the film we meet a number of activists from around the world fighting industry and government to take back the land.
March in Sompeta, India
I'm not sure which story I found most inspiring - the people in Andhra
Pradesh, India, who engaged in dangerous action against a proposed coal
mine in their wetlands, Crystal from the Beaver Lake Cree First Nation
in Canada trying to gain access to ancestral lands, the passion of the Greek protestors, or the determination of so many people
marching and protesting around the globe for justice on a range of environmental issues.
Protestors in Halkidiki, Greece
Ultimately the film suggests that we do have the power to change the story - we can either let outdated thinking and a broken economic model drive us toward an uninhabitable planet, or we can take charge and design a world that is cleaner and more just for all.
Will there be push back?
Oh yeah.
Just take a look at what happens at the climate conference hosted by the short-sighted, ultra-conservative Heartland Institute and you'll see the levels of greed and denial that we are up against (I'm still wondering how filmmakers got access and approval to release the footage!).
Nevertheless, the time to act couldn't be more pressing.
I'm starting by joining the People's Climate March taking place in Australia 27-29 November. Taking place just before world leaders meet in Paris for the annual United Nations climate summit, marches will occur in major cities around the world to demand a transition to renewable energy, secure job creation, clear air and a healthy environment.
It's been far too long since I pounded the pavement and raised my voice for my cause. I walked away from the film screening last night with an ache in my heart for not being more present on the ground over the past couple of years. My activist-soul cannot wait for the 29th of November, when I hope I'll see you Sydneysiders at our march in the Domain. If not there, find a march near you, and we can send a united message to world leaders that the time for action is now.
xLisa
*Confession time for me - I haven't read it yet! It's somewhere on my long-list of 'must read for PhD' books. I promise I'll get to it.
