between the bushfires and the pandemic, hope springs

An Environmentalist on Having Children

A recent article in The Conversation suggests there will be no Covid Baby Boom in Australia, despite many lucky couples celebrating more adventurous sex lives during the pandemic. It cites reasons such as economic uncertainty, relationships being more strained by forced togetherness (highlighted by the horrific statistics of increased domestic violence during lockdown), and the postponement of elective medical procedures, including IVF. Other research from the US shows 34% of surveyed women said the pandemic was stopping them from getting pregnant or having another child, primarily due to the uncertainty of the future in terms of jobs, healthcare and childcare. 

These stories have reminded me of the growing group of environmentalists who are remaining child-free by choice*. In the UK, the Birthstrike movement demands system change and shares personal, often heartbreaking, stories from its members on how they decided to not have children in relation to the planet's ecological destruction. There is a similar movement in the US called Conceivable Future that includes video testimonials. I greatly appreciate that both these movements give people the opportunity to share their personal stories and speak their truth, even if that truth remains in the "I'm still undecided" category. Many environmental campaigners and journalists have also shared their thoughts and anxieties around the choice to have children (or not).

As someone entrenched in the environmental movement I completely relate to those who share their thoughts on the taboo subject to be child-free by choice in a world that celebrates reproduction. One of the most common reasons discussed is the morality of bringing children into a world that will be largely uninhabitable by the end of the century if radical climate action does not occur within the next decade. When Australia was experiencing the devastating bushfires this past summer, I was consumed with anxiety and sadness at the world that awaits my son, who is now just 2 1/2 years old. I don't think I will ever forget the particular evening we watched ash falling like black snow against a fire-tinged orange sky. And I hope I don't forget it, such a powerful reminder that the climate has already changed, and urgent action is required to halt its progress toward even more devastating ends.

Another common reason for choosing to be child-free is to avoid bringing another "superconsumer" into the world, particularly the industrialised nations where these movements are most vocal. I write this from the comfort of my first world home complete with WiFi, lighting, heaters, devices, furniture and so much stuff. Even as a climate activist my lifestyle has a heavy footprint, and the last time I measured it would take 1.7 Earths to sustain my lifestyle (the average Australian lifestyle uses 5.2 Earths - meaning, if everyone on the planet lived like Aussies we'd need 5.2 planet earths to sustain us). Bringing another western "superconsumer" into the world is hardly a pro-environmental act. 

And yet, despite these very valid concerns, I never considered not having a child for environmental reasons. In fact, I actively pursued reproduction. My first child was conceived via IVF after years of "unexplained infertility", multiple tests and treatments. And last year I had two surgeries to address complications from my son's birth because without doing so I would never be able to have another child. Even after the devastation and resulting fear from the summer's bushfires, I scheduled an appointment with my fertility specialist to start another round of IVF to try for Baby #2 in February of this year.

And then 2020 continued to unfold in surprising ways. 

Somewhere between the bushfires and the pandemic, and before my IVF cycle could begin, I became unexpectedly pregnant.** 

I view this surprising, joyful, twist of fate emblematic of the way I view parenthood in the time of climate change - a brazen sign, or act, of hope. Even though the familiar climate horror stories initially inspired my involvement as an activist, I have never once thought we couldn't solve the problem. Never.

This doesn't mean I think everything is solved, or that we can afford to be personally or politically complacent. But that I know collectively humans have the knowledge, willpower and tenacity to overcome the climate crisis. I know, I know, I hear your concerns...

• There are conservative and corrupt governments to overcome.
• There are covert corporate interests that interfere with our governments that also attempt to greenwash us with beautiful climate commitment statements.
• We continue to emit dangerous levels of greenhouse gases, even during the pandemic.
• There are countless issues of biodiversity loss, drought, and planetary health to address.

But, we also have:

• A growing, powerful youth climate movement.
• A robust Indigenous climate movement.
• Growing awareness of the many effective grassroots environmental justice programs led by BIPOC.
• Thousands (or is it millions?) of scientists, engineerings, social scientists, writers, and other experts and activists finding solutions all across the globe.

As a result, the culture is changing.

I've said it before, but one of the great privileges of my work is meeting with people who are actively improving the world. Often quietly, behind the scenes, no fanfare (no Instagram!), just hard work, often unpaid and voluntary. So in addition to my naturally optimistic view of the world, I am lucky to be surrounded by signs of hope (as long as I don't linger on social media or the news for too long). I don't mean to discount the feelings or fears of others who have chosen the alternate view, and of course there's a chance I could be wrong, but I genuinely feel the best is yet to come for humanity. You can feel change in the air (even amongst a global pandemic, or perhaps it's enhanced because of it).

I yearned for a family for a myriad of reasons, not at all connected to the environment (except, perhaps, wanting to share the love I have for the natural world with the next generation). But I do consider the fact that I am an active environmentalist having a second child to be an act of hopeful rebellion. I refuse to accept we have lost. I remain ever hopeful that we are pulling ourselves toward a cleaner, safer future. And now I will have one more reason to continue dedicating my life to the cause. And just maybe, if I do my parenting job correctly, I'll have the privilege of raising two humans with a generous, selfless, compassionate, collaborative, justice-oriented worldview (no pressure, kids).

xx Lisa

* Please note, I am writing specifically about people who actively choose to be child-free, and I am deeply sorry if this post triggers difficult emotions for anyone experiencing infertility or being child-free for any other reason.

**My intention here is not to provide any false hope to anyone experiencing infertility, or to offer one of those stories we're so often told to try and give us hope that miracles can happen. My heart truly goes out to anyone who has ever dealt with the emotional reality of infertility. I merely aim to tell my full story here.

sustainable fashion is so hot right now

For a long time the uptake of sustainable fashion could best be described as a slow burn. There was a constant increase in interest, but it moved at a snail's pace. Sustainable fashion designers struggled to make ends meet, with many working for the passion they felt as activists rather than for the money. And on a personal level, many people raised an eyebrow at my research and questioned whether it was really worth investigating.

Fast forward to 2019 and sustainability is trending, and it's making me worried.

Sustainability and climate change were key features at the recently-wrapped Fashion Weeks (including some fabulous disruption from Extinction Rebellion in London and New York), celebrity endorsements and labels are constantly popping up, the Duchess of Sussex wore Outland Denim and changed the face of sustainable fashion, The Iconic launched their ethical edit, 'Considered', and I feel like I'm seeing nearly as many Vejas as Stan Smiths these days.

Image via Instagram

In fact it was a Veja-spotting that inspired me to write today.

I was on the bus home from work this week, holding onto the swinging handle for dear life as the bus took a sharp turn, when I spotted a pair of Vejas on a young woman seated near me.  A quick scan and I saw she'd paired those white sneakers with some jeans, a Gucci crossbody handbag, a white Tommy Hilfiger tee and some lovely large gold hoop earrings. A few days later I saw another chic woman wearing Vejas with a long silk skirt and tee and a stunning oversized Dior tote. For all I know these designer additions were quality vintage or consignment pieces, but I'm going to make the assumption based on their pristine appearances that they were not.

I've read plenty of articles - scholarly and mass media - talking about sustainable fashion being a status symbol. And there is a lot of weight to the argument that sustainable fashion is primarily available for the upper middle class. These young women personified these criticisms in a way I hadn't yet seen in person.

I don't mean to point fingers at these ladies and blame them for the state of fashion today. However, seeing these bright young things wearing some of the world's most sustainable sneakers with trendy designer pieces demonstrated something I've been suspecting and fearing for awhile...we may be raising general awareness, but nothing is really changing.

Sure, sustainable fashion is so hot right now. More and more people actually know what it is. It's being written about in the pages of Vogue on a regular basis. There are podcasts, blogs, websites, online shops and sustainable stylists and designers all working to raise awareness of the issues and shed light on alternatives. But the fact that designer labels decided to adopt it for their latest runway shows makes me feel we are just swimming in circles, so does seeing a stylish woman who is matching sustainable sneakers with designer labels.


Fashion Editor Vanessa Friedman has an incredible critique in the New York Times about this current turn toward sustainability during the most recent Fashion Weeks. Of her many compelling arguments one that stood out to me was the fact that just last year the brands were addressing the repercussions from the #MeToo movement, and this year some models are reporting it's worse than ever.

In addition, fast fashion continues to pervail, despite some positive signs it was crumbling (like Forever21 filing for bankruptcy, mainly due to not being able to compete on style with H&M and Zara). Zara profits remain high and growing, with plans for worldwide online sales from next year. H&M recently announced its first increase in profits in two years and continue grow their store numbers to more than 5,000 around the world - it also has plans for further online reach in the years to come. More garments will be produced this year than last, and the same thing will happen next year again.


The fashion system is broken, and has been for a long time. It relies on constant renewal to survive, and it relies on us buying into new styles season after season, year after year, and so it injects billions of dollars into marketing to ensure that we make those purchases. In other words, just because people know about something - even the fast fashion companies themselves, which are making promises toward sustainable fabrics and transparent processes - doesn't mean the problem is solved. As long as clothes continue to be designed and produced at these fast rates in vast quantities, it cannot be sustainable. As long as labels want me to buy their new collection each season, or even each year, it cannot be sustainable. Until we can curtail this system that generates constant desire, it cannot be sustainable.

So there, I've said it. I've been thinking it for awhile, and there it is. For all the incredible work my fellow sustainable fashion activists have done over the past decade, particularly the past five or six years, the system remains firmly in tact. I know that progress has been made and I don't want sustainable fashion designers or activists to feel like their work has been for nothing, because it has undoubtedly shifted the conversation. But I feel an increased sense of urgency that just isn't being addressed but the launches of new sustainable fashion lines and the embrace of sustainability on major Fashion Week catwalks. It all feels like more greenwashing to me.

A few years ago, seeing two pair of Vejas in one week would have filled me with glee. Unfortunately, knowing what I know now, it fills me with dread. It appears they are being used as a status symbol, a recognisable and coveted name brand, that may even assuage guilt of some people about the dismal state of the climate and the planet.

So yeah, sustainable fashion is so hot right now. What will be so hot next year? (besides the planet, obvs).

recycle your clothes

Over the years as I've taught lectures on fashion and sustainability I've shown my students the below ad from H&M about recycling your clothes.

I haven't always had kind things to say about H&M, but I love this ad from 2015. It's provocative, has great imagery, promotes body and cultural diversity, and whoever is doing the voiceover is mesmerising.

Typically the ad generates a lot of discussion from students. Fashion or clothing is something most people feel comfortable talking about, and H&M elicits a range of responses and emotions from different students. There's always a lot of support for the diversity shown in the ad, though it's often tempered by criticisms of overconsumption (this is a fast fashion company, after all), and there is always discussion about the role fast fashion companies play in providing fashionable clothing at a low cost for those with those on constrained incomes. But the message about recycling is what really gets people fired up. (Watch it and let me know what you think!)

So here's the deal - you can take any of your used clothing and textiles to H&M and they will recycle it for you. There is a range of things that may happen to the items. If they are good quality, they may resell or donate them. If not, they may be recycled into their base fibres to be remade into fabric again, or perhaps ragged and used in various industries. This is a global campaign, so no matter where you live, you can take things to any H&M store for recycling. And (naturally) they give you a discount for your next purchase.

Despite seeing this ad dozens of times, I've never taken my used clothing to H&M, mostly because I don't usually shop there. I appreciate the strides they have taken toward sustainability through research and innovation, but I don't like to support their overall fast fashion business model. Then last week I found myself with a number of used garments that just did not feel good enough to donate to a charity shop - and some items that are not meant to go to charity shops (hello used bras!) - so I thought I'd take them to H&M since I knew they would not end up in landfill this way, or cost a charity money to dispose of properly on my behalf.

It was very easy. There was a huge sign behind the counter, and the cashier kindly helped me put my bag of donations in the very large (and empty!) bin. She then handed me a coupon for 15% off one item from the store.

And, you know, since I was there...I shopped. Actually I had planned on picking up some long sleeve tops for my son now that winter has finally set in. I know that H&M have a decent range of Conscious Collection basics for babies made from 100% organic cotton. I've written before about building a sustainable baby wardrobe mostly using secondhand items and special pieces from small businesses, but I tell you what, now that he's eating and walking and going to daycare - the mess! Multiple outfit changes are not unheard of in a given day, and I'm getting a glimpse into the rips and stains that will surely mark my 'parent of a toddler' years. My early supply of hand-me-downs have slowed (probably because everyone else's children are wearing out their clothing), so affordable sustainable basics are a good way to add to his wardrobe. (In other words - I finally really understand what people who have attended my workshops in the past have been talking about when they talk of the difficulty in sourcing sustainable children's clothing.)

I bought some long sleeve tops, which were all on a "Buy 3 for the Price of 2" promotion and seemed like a money-losing deal to me since the full price was already so low. I briefly hesitated. Even with all the work H&M claim to be doing to improve working conditions and transparency, how can a garment be made for such a cheap price? And out of organic cotton? Who made those clothes? How much were they paid to sew these adorable nautical-themed onesies?

I really am a sucker for stripes.

And yet, I bought them all the same.

And then I made an impulse purchase of an item that I didn't even know that I needed until I saw it - an adorable shoe organiser that hangs on the back of my son's door and has a bear face. His shoes had been making clutter and driving me crazy, so perhaps I subconsciously was looking for a solution, but it was definitely an impulse purchase. No denying the fact. Since this was the highest-priced item in my basket (at a whopping $25), it was the recipient of my 15% discount.

I mean, c'mon, the adorableness of being tidy!

And so, to sum up, I've basically been putty in the hands of H&M's marketing geniuses - they've received my used clothes, from which they will make money through recycling, and they've also received more of my dollars from buying brand new items.

Some sustainable lifestyle guru I am! I literally have a PhD on the topic, teach university students to think critically about the offer, and yet take me to a well-presented retail space and I get blinded by the lights.

At least I followed the one unbreakable fashion rule - I recycled my clothes.

progress

Instead of bringing you Part Two of Environmental Melancholia today I decided to share a quick story of sustainable fashion progress instead.

Photo by Erwan Hesry on Unsplash

I was at the hairdresser last week getting a delicious hair treatment (don't worry, the salon is accredited with Sustainable Salons), and while relaxing in the shampoo chair I overhead another salon patron talking about her current craft project. Sitting on her lap was a a bag bursting with strips of cloth that she was braiding into long ropes. She proceeded to explain to her stylist that she was meeting up with friends later to sew them into baskets.

I was already pleased to hear about her project, as I was reminded of my own (now defunct) secondhand denim rug project. Then my sustainable fashion activist heart leapt when I heard what she said next:

We're trying to make something useful with these old clothes. You know, there is so much clothing waste because of fast fashion.

You can't make this stuff up!

Okay, I know it's not like the entire salon was sitting there upcycling used clothing. But compared to when I started working in this space, to hear a stranger start talking about clothing waste and fast fashion in this way felt revolutionary. And when coupled with the information my students at the University of Sydney already know about the perils of fast fashion, I can feel the tide is turning.

Do we have more work to do?

Absolutely.

But I will forever believe in the power of celebrating these wins - we can push for more progress tomorrow.

Where are you overhearing people talk about fashion and sustainability?

xxLisa

eco nursery style

It’s official - my baby’s bed is better than mine...

My favourite part is his lovingly handmade quilt, created by his great Aunt in Indiana. It’s just gorgeous - thank you Sharon!

Coming in a close second is his luxurious cot sheet set. Yes that’s right, luxurious. We were gifted a set of Elkie & Ark Fairtrade and organic cotton sheets, they are seriously silky smooth, and I will be buying myself a grown up set soon. See the following photos to see them without the quilt (though not too close up as they are slightly wrinkled from the laundry - busy Mama, not gonna iron sheets for an Instagram post 😂).

Of course he has a little lovey in his bed, also made with organic Fairtrade cotton, Kippins bunny named River - he was a lifesaver when we moved him into his own room a couple months ago!

Hidden from view is a wool mattress protector and a 100% natural latex mattress - both purchased from Nature Baby.

And you can see the top of his Oeuf cot, which will transform into a toddler bed, that I found secondhand from Gumtree. So great to be able to find sustainable wood  products secondhand.

I created the artwork on the walls, and framed them in frames made of reclaimed timber from Mulbury.

Oh yeah- and the paint on the walls is Bio Natural Paints that I bought from Eco at Home last year - the walls used to be a bright yellow - yikes! It’s now a soothing grey. I was so happy to be able to create exactly the colour I wanted from a natural, VOC-free paint, thanks to the colour-mixing experts at Eco at Home.

I did the best I could to create a sustainable nursery, this is just a snapshot from one corner. I’ll show you another corner another day, this nap time is almost over and I'll be chasing my little explorer all over the place before I know it!

Have a fabulous day!

xxLisa

adventures in baby wholefoods

I simply cannot believe my little one is 5 months old - where has the time gone?! (Utters every parent around the globe...)

I've been very lucky that breastfeeding has gone so well and my little guy has packed on the pounds quite well, and quite quickly. But lately he's been showing signs that he may be ready for more variety in his diet, so today he had first taste of food. Exciting!

So I turned to this book, "Wholefood for Children," which a friend gave me a couple of months ago. I have a feeling this book will be a treasured resource for years to come.

It has a chapter on first foods and gives great insights into the importance of cooking as much of the baby's food as possible, the types of foods to start feeding to baby, why we should use the oven or steamer as opposed to the microwave, and includes many recipes to keep things interesting as well as healthy for the bub. The book also suggests some of the best nutrient-dense first foods are egg yolk, liver and lamb's brains (!). I love that throughout this chapter are ideas for how to make food for baby out of what you are cooking for yourself so you don't have to double up on cooking.

As the book (and the Early Childhood Centre) suggest, my son's first food was a root vegetable. I decided to start with sweet potato because, hello, sweet potatoes are amazing. But assuming he continues to enjoy his first veggies I'll work some egg yolk into the veggies soon.

Picking up sweet potato from the Manly Food Co-op.

The author also suggests enriching the foods with ghee or coconut oil in order for the baby to better assimilate the vitamins and minerals. I opted for just a tiny amount of coconut oil so as not to worry about dairy for now.

I roasted a sweet potato rubbed with coconut oil (both from the Manly Food Co-op) in the oven until a fork went easily through it. After it was cooled I scooped the flesh into a small saucepan (and ate the delicious skins myself - yum!) and pureed with a drop of coconut oil and a bit of cooled boiled water using a stick blender.

By all accounts I'd call it a success. He certainly made the initial, "What is this?!" face of confusion-slash-disgust, but soon enough was grabbing for the spoon to chew on and lick himself.

The experience was as delightfully messy as you could imagine!
Though you can't see it all that well, he is wearing a cardigan that was
hand-knit by our neighbour's mother - so kind and gorgeous and warm!
And his bib is a fabulous secondhand item from our dear friends. 

Only time will tell if I continue to make all his meals - I quickly learned how full my days are caring for this little munchkin - but I certainly think this book will give me the necessary guidance and recipes as I get started.

Does your little one have any favourite foods that I should try?

In my excitement I forgot to photograph this with the food in it - part of
the adorable Love Mae bamboo dining set that hubby bought when I was
pregnant. I cannot believe we are already using it.

xxLisa

cloth nappy conundrum

Today's blog post is not so much a lesson on the ins and outs of cloth nappies, but a tale of my experience learning the ropes of a new eco-habit.

When I last wrote I had a big belly full of baby. I welcomed my beautiful son into the world on Boxing Day: as a colleague of mine so eloquently put it, life with a newborn is full and exhausting. Now that I have rounded the corner on my son's first three months of life I feel I can finally come up for air (from time to time, anyway).

Before I had my baby I assumed I'd use cloth nappies (that's diapers for my American readers!). Why in the world would I, a so-called sustainable living expert, even consider using disposables? A friend gave me her collection of cloth nappies so I didn't have to fork out the cash for new ones, and then my husband's colleagues gifted us a month of a cloth nappy service so we wouldn't have to deal with the laundry as we adjusted to life with a newborn. Too easy!

Then baby arrived.

The adjustment to being a parent was larger than I ever could have imagined. Besides my own physical recovery (which was longer and harder than I realised it would be), and the all encompassing exhaustion in the earliest weeks, there was so much to do, learn and understand. When he first came home my son's meals needed to be supplemented by formula and I had to connect myself to a breast pump after each feeding to get my supply up. This meant lots of time washing and sterilising bottles and pump equipment on top of the feeding time itself, which was nearly an hour when he was brand new. Then an endless stream of questions and decisions arose: why is he crying? How is best to bathe him? How to dress him in the stinking hot Sydney summer? How can I help his reflux? Is it too hot to go for a walk? Is he overstimulated? Is he under stimulated? How can I help him sleep?! Etc, etc, etc.

As it turns out I couldn't even fathom cloth nappies for the first couple weeks of his life. We have, however, used reusable cloth wipes his entire life - just small cotton or bamboo clothes and water, soak the used ones in a bucket of pre-soak, and wash a bundle once a week. They always come clean (somehow!) without bleach, and dry quickly on the line. Super easy.

Then we started using the gifted nappy service - Lavenderia. It's a cloth nappy system consisting of cloth inserts and a (mostly) waterproof outer cover. When my son was tiny, though, there were a number of leaks, even on the smallest sizing of the cover, and he got nappy rash quite quickly. After a few leaks that led to changing bassinet sheets at 2 in the morning and a persistent nappy rash, I told my hubby I needed a break until I at least felt more confident in other areas of being a mum. I was surprised that I gave up so quickly given my passion for the environment, but it seemed like one of the quickest changes to make my life as a new mum a bit easier (and I am one of the incredibly lucky ones who had a lot of support from my husband and relatives who visited from the US.).

So, fast forward to the 3 month stage, my beautiful boy has some seriously healthy (read: chubby) thighs so leaks should not be an issue, and so we started up with Lavenderia again. The kind owner of the business has been incredibly helpful at showing us how to adjust the snaps to get the right size for our son (key tip here, make the leg and waist holes even smaller than you may think). I was impressed with the personal attention and felt grateful for the support.

Look at those gorgeous chubby legs!

Now my main gripe with cloth nappies is aesthetic. They are very bulky in comparison to disposables (I have been using Tooshies by TOM as an environmentally-friendly version of disposables) and look enormous. I don't love the look of just having the cloth outer covers as his bottoms (hello, fashion lover here!) and they do not fit well under most of the 3-6 month clothes I have for my little guy.  I tried using just one cloth insert to make them less bulky, but it wasn't enough to absorb all the wee from my wee little boy and I had some leakage through the outer cover.

I have managed to squeeze them under this adorable Carlie Ballard nappy cover.

I am also dealing with nappy rash again. He hasn't had it using the disposables, but now is getting a little bit now that we're on the cloth. Lavenderia suggest changing the nappy every 2-3 hours to prevent it, but (blissfully) I have a great nighttime sleeper on my hands and he is wearing the nappy for long stretches at night.

And, finally, they are less convenient than disposables. There's no denying it. Even with this easiest introduction into cloth nappies with the use of a service, it takes just a little bit longer to change him than using disposables, and requires a little bit more organisation if you're going to be out and about (not to mention space), and time is severely limited with a new bub (and not something you want to squander at that 3am feed and nappy change).

So between the bulkiness, the occasional leak, the nappy rash and (slight) inconvenience, I'm questioning the use of cloth nappies. And I am not even doing the laundry! I have even found myself researching life cycle analysis of cloth versus disposable nappies (there are many conflicting reports, so I am going to keep researching, but common sense suggests reusable is always better than a single-use disposable item, right?).

Once again I am surprised at how quick I am to consider giving up cloth nappies. I don't want to beat myself up - adjusting to being a full time mum is major, and there are so many new aspects to my life that take up time and energy - and yet, what kind of environmentalist am I if I am willing to ditch the cloth nappies so easily? I feel incredibly conflicted, and yet still find myself drawn to the ease of disposables (even as I picture overflowing landfills and depleting natural resources).

I love to write blog posts that give my readers advice or expertise, but for this first post of my new role as a mum, I thought I'd just be honest about an environmental dilemma I am facing. It's an important reminder to me (and other environmentalists) about the significance of individuals' everyday realities when it comes to adopting pro-environmental behaviour. Of course it all sounds so straightforward - here, use this cloth nappy service, it's better for the environment (or recycle, avoid fast fashion, buy organic food, use renewable energy, etc). But in reality, there are multiple facets to everyone's lives that either support or preclude pro-environmental behaviour. And it turns out that even I am not immune.

I will stick with Lavenderia for now, except on days when I am out and about (they really are bulky and would take up a lot of room in the nappy bag!). And I may move over to DIY-laundry cloth nappies in the future. But I'm not loving the experience or finding it as easy as I thought I would, and I'm seriously not happy about them not fitting under most of his clothes (the majority of which are secondhand, but more on that in a later post). I have always tried to be honest with my readers about my adoption of sustainable lifestyle activities, so I thank you for indulging me in this rant.

Have you used cloth nappies? Do you have tips for me?

Take care until next time.
xxLisa

PS - my husband and I also had a lesson in toileting your baby, as in toilet-training from infancy, to avoid this whole conundrum altogether. Sounding like a pretty great idea to me right now....

i heart nudie

Do you have items in your wardrobe that haven't fit for years? And you keep thinking, "maybe one day?"

Normally I get rid of those items - no need to not love everything in your wardrobe, I always say. But I've had a hard time saying goodbye to these black skinny Nudie jeans. Probably because I just LOVE Nudie. They have been committed to organic cotton for years, offer free repairs for the life of your denim, sell pre-loved jeans in their stores, recycle denim that's beyond repair, and have embraced sustainability long before it became trendy.

But, I bought the wrong size. Well, I think I'd hoped they would stretch a bit with wear, and they certainly did not. So - off to eBay for these beauties! They are barely worn, hence the sale rather than donation. Waist 29, length 30, high waisted, skinny High Kai denim.

If that happens to be your size, check them out on eBay.

Otherwise, next time you're in the market for new denim, check out Nudie and enjoy wearing high quality, organic cotton denim.

As proof of their commitment to repair - here are a couple snaps of my husband's Nudies, repaired twice now (and another pair is currently being repaired as I type).

Thanks, Nudie, for your complete embrace of sustainable values throughout the life of your products.

plastic microfibre pollution

My latest sustainable fashion obsession is the trouble with microfibre pollution.  If you haven't heard of this before, the Story of Stuff have done a great video explaining what it is.

Essentially, tiny microfibres come off our clothes when we wear and wash our garments. You know, those little bits of fuzz and fluff. It's normal, of course. Fabric is woven from threads which were spun together using millions of pieces of fibre of varying lengths. It makes sense that they would fray and shed over time.

These microfibres are tiny, visible only through a microscope.

The real trouble comes with synthetic clothing. When these minuscule synthetic fibres break off our clothes, they never break down. Natural fibres like cotton, wool, linen and hemp have the ability to biodegrade, but just like plastic, synthetic fibres cannot naturally biodegrade. Most of the fibres are captured by our washing machine filters and by wastewater treatment plants, but unfortunately many of these fibres are too small to be captured and have been found in our water ways, our ocean, and inside fish, where they occasionally become embedding in the fishes' bodily organs. Just like other microplastics, whatever eats any of these fish, eats the plastic - including bigger marine creatures, sea birds, and (of course) humans.

One of the most painful ironies for me with this situation is that so much research has gone into creating recycled polyesters or other fabrics made of recycled plastic (including many labels I love and have recommended over the years); now it seems we may have just been recycling plastic into a form that makes it easier to send microplastic pollution into the world.

This week I am participating in an online conference called the Lives and Afterlives of Plastic, and have uploaded a video presentation - it's available on the conference website and on my YouTube channel (my first video!). It's about 20 minutes long, and gives an overview of the problem, the early proposed solutions, and my thoughts about where we need to go from here. If you've ever wanted to come to a guest lecture of mine, this is the next best thing! I'd love for you to take a look and let me know what you think!

In the meantime, it's a good time to start to really look at the fabric of your clothes, particularly if you're making a new purchase. Of course it's really hard to avoid all synthetics, but if we at least start paying attention we can start to ask why synthetics seem to be used in so many goods, and seek other options when possible. And there are a couple interim solutions, like the Guppyfriend washing bag, that you may want to consider if you currently have a lot of synthetic fabrics in your wardrobe. But, as I say in the presentation, this is not one for the wearers and buyers of clothing to solve. This is an enormous industry problem, and will require much collaboration and continued innovation.

Take care until next time,
xLisa

it's a revolution, baby

Happy Fashion Revolution Week!

It is hard to believe that it's been four years since the devastating Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh that sparked a Fashion Revolution. On that day, over 1,100 garment workers were killed and more than 2,500 injured in a completely preventable disaster. And it's essential that we're clear on the fact that this devastation was a direct result of changes in our fashion production system that demand ever-faster production at ever-lower prices.

There remains so much work to do to make sure this doesn't happen again, to ensure that no one has to put her or his life at risk so I can feel great in beautiful clothing. But today I want to focus on some of the positive changes I've seen since the global Fashion Revolution campaign began.

I must admit, I haven't been able to participate in nearly as many events this year as I would like to - I am definitely placing  most of the blame on my PhD (getting so close!), but some of it on the fact that this year, in Sydney, there were so many events to choose from! Amazing work, Sydneysiders! There have been lectures, panel discussions, film screenings, clothes swaps and even a yoga session.

I participated in two events this week - one was a panel discussion/cocktail event at the beautiful Darley Store with my friend and fellow sustainable fashion advocate Carlie Ballard and designer Hang Osment-Le from the beautiful label All the Wild Roses.

We talked about why we each got involved in the movement, the challenges of being a sustainable or ethical fashion designer, the things that keep us up at night, and the things that inspire us. The crowd was a delightful mixture of fellow advocates, designers and interested fashion lovers and citizens. We even had some guests brave the icy wind all the way from Wolli Creek - you are amazing.

Incredible ethical Gin Gin Mules, made with Fair Gin
and Fair gingerale c/o Noble Spirits.

Last night I hosted a "Who Made My Clothes?" workshop with Willoughby City Council, and was delighted to be joined by the dynamic duo behind the Possibility Project and Slumwear 108, who spoke about the power of working from a place of gratitude and belief that we each have the power to change the world. By the end of the evening we had guests learning to use the Good On You app, checking out the Project Just website, debating some of the grades of labels in the latest Ethical Fashion Report, and helping one another think about the clothes we wear each day.

The gorgeous Possibility Project women (Kim far left, Kath far right)
with The Only Way is Op blogger/Instagrammer extraordinaire, Ellen.

A real highlight for me was seeing a guest who had attended a previous event I hosted with Willoughby City Council - she brought her teenage daughter along (who Instagrammed the event - thank you for spreading the word about sustainable fashion!), and also told me that after attending the previous event, she and a friend hosted a very successful clothes swap in their church. Fabulous!


I have been so fortunate to spend the past five years immersed in the world of sustainable and ethical fashion, and I can honestly say the tide is turning. More people are more engaged in the issues than ever before. Citizens are aware of what is happening and eager to play their part. Up and coming designers and design students are starting their labels with sustainable business models. Young people want to know how to get involved in activist work. Sustainable fashion entrepreneurs continue to trail-blaze paths toward ethical production without ravaging the planet's resources to make their beautiful garments. And some of the big fashion players are taking truly revolutionary steps to change the way they make their clothes.

The women from the Possibility Project are so spot on when they say:

There are 7 billion solutions to our problems when we remember how powerful each of us are.

So I will leave you with that powerful message - it doesn't matter who you are, or where you are, or whether you are involved in the fashion industry or not. We can each help solve the issues of the world, we just have to get started. If you're not sure how, you can start simply by taking a photo of yourself today, sharing it Instagram, tagging the company that made your clothes and include the hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes?

Some of the fabulous guests last night - one who told me she was
"proud of me", even though she knew how odd that sounded since she
doesn't know me - I love it! I'm proud of you for coming along :)
And another who is working on a denim upcycling project, can't wait
to see her creations come to life.

Not on Instagram? No problem. Call or email the company instead. The more we ask, the more they'll change, it's as simple as that.

xxLisa

Fast fashion, slow cotton

I recently provided some input on a story for the Lush Times (yes, connected with the ethical beauty company famous for their delightful bath bombs).  Here's a preview, and a link to the full article:

Amid the designer luxury of the recent Paris Fashion Week, new clothes were paraded down the catwalk, ready for the latest trends to hit the high street. But experts are calling for dedicated followers of fashion to shape a new industry trend: one of sustainable fashion and organic cotton. Stepping away from the world of fast fashion, consumers are being encouraged to think about what lies behind each garment.

The cotton growing and harvesting process may not be the first thing on consumers’ minds when they purchase clothes, but sustainability expert Lisa Heinze is keen for this to change, and for the real ‘value’ of garments to be revealed, from cotton production to the creation of clothing items.

She said: “Once we start looking at garments not just as a garment, but as a collection of stories about people who created that garment, we increase its value.”

This approach could lead to consumers approaching fashion in a more conscientious way, taking an interest in the chain of events leading up to an item’s creation, and whether it has been fair for both people and planet.

Lisa Heinze said: “Learning even a little about garment production can help us gain an appreciation of how much time and effort people put into making the clothes we wear.”

The sustainability expert highlights a number of environmental and social issues related to fashion production, including water use, water pollution, worker safety and garment waste. She said that the issue is exacerbated as the fast fashion cycle becomes faster.

Continue to Lush

getting crafty

I'm not the world's craftiest person, but I do love a good hands-on creative project. Last week I managed to work on a project I've been meaning to for - not joking - three years (at least!).

My homemade, hand-stitched cushion cover.

When I was in East Africa in 2012 I bought some gorgeous fabric. Anyone who has been to the region knows the incredible textiles that are used in dress and for decoration known as khanga, or the thicker kitenge. Typically made of cotton and woven in Kenya and Tanzania, it's impossible not to admire the beautiful colours and bold prints on this traditional cloth. The markets are filled with stalls and shops selling the cloth, and I loved seeing the women wearing these beautiful garments everywhere we went on our travels.

I only bought a few khangas (perhaps subconsciously knowing it would take me years to use them), but every time I look at the beautiful materials I'm taken back to Tanzania and the sights, smells and sounds of that magical country.

Fast-forward to last week - I finally made one cushion cover with the fabric. I made it by hand because I don't have a sewing machine, I'm not great with a sewing machine, and it was nice meditative work at the end of my busy days.

The khanga, the old cushion needing recovering, and my
calculations for measuring the fabric.

Midway through the project - I'd successfully sewed
finished seams and pinned the pieces together.

I followed the clear guidance of Hey There Home and was amazed at how easy it was to create this cover, even for a sewing novice like me. If you've been wanting to freshen up your home without spending a fortune, I can vouch for the ease of making these envelope cushion covers. I am going to make a few more to sit alongside this beauty (this project didn't even use a quarter of the fabric), and keep thinking about what to do with the other cloth I have.

How great are these colours?!

I love filling my house with memories from my travels, and was glad to reuse an old cushion that was worse for wear (and not matching my current colour scheme). Have you worked on any fun, crafty projects lately? I'd love to hear about them!

Have a great week.
xxLisa

sustainable vintage style

This week I was delighted to don my favourite pink party dress and be interviewed by my colleague at the University of Sydney, the smart and charming Tara Moss, for her Victory Lamour blog. Below is a brief excerpt and a link to her website.

‘One of the most important things we can all do is to love our clothes and take good care of them…mending something when it’s been damaged.’ – Lisa Heinze

Happy new year!

For the first blog of 2017 I thought I would visit one of my passions, and resolutions – to be kinder to the environment. I’m no eco angel, but I have been drawn to vintage for aesthetic and historical as well as ethical reasons. Every time I buy, trade, sell and repair or mend vintage, whether it is a 1950s dress or a 1960s caravan, I feel like I am investing not only in something built to last, as most things were in that time, but in something that has a lighter footprint on the planet because new materials have not been needed to produce it.

This matters with clothing, perhaps more than most of us realise.

In the mid century, particularly during WW2 when ‘make do and mend‘ was a national priority and strict rations impacted every day people, recycling, re-using and mending was down to an art form. There were multiple handbooks on the subject, and members of each household took time to mend and fix the family’s things, whether it was the radio or a pair of trousers. Today there are many millions – billions even – of kilos of discarded clothing on the planet. In fact, journalist Lucy Seigle points out that 80 billion new garments are produced globally every year. (You can check out my interview with Lucy here.)

Continue reading on the Victory Lamour website. 

the thought counts in sustainable gift-giving

Hi All~

The silly season is well and truly upon us, even if many of us (myself included!) are still wrapped up with our usually busy schedules.

I want to thank you all for your continued support and readership over the years, and wish you and your friends a joyous holiday season, wherever you are and whatever you may celebrate at this time of year.

I want to share with you a blog post I wrote for the Sydney Environment Institute in case any of your are frantically worry about gift-giving at this time of year.

The holiday season can bring a lot of gift-related angst, can’t it? All the questions about who you should get something for, what they may want, how much to spend, and where to find the time to do it all can feel incredibly overwhelming. Not to mention the guilt felt when you receive a gift you don’t really love. Then there are the environmental and ethical implications of gift giving – not only because of the (often) harmful production of goods, but also because of the excess donations taken to charity shops during the holiday season.

Whether they are unwanted gifts or a donation of last year’s sundresses that have been replaced by this year’s style, there is a surge of donations that cost charity shops millions of dollars to sort and dispose at this time of year. But there is also a lot of joy associated with gift-giving. We communicate our love for people through gifts, show people that we understand who they are and what they love, and even help people through hard times. So instead of a completely minimalist approach to the season, I’d like to think we can find a realistic and sustainable balance during the holidays through more mindful gift giving. Think “It’s the thought that counts” with emphasis on the ‘thought’:

• Seek sustainable alternatives to the gifts you want to give – from Fairtrade organic chocolates to ethically-produced fashion, there are sustainable choices for nearly everything. Often all it takes is a quick online search or a visit to Fairtrade store and you’ll have beautiful options at your fingertips.
• Really think about the gift recipient. What do you know about them and what might they love to receive? Even the most eco-friendly or ethical gift in the world can quickly become rubbish if it’s not something desired by the recipient.
• Vintage stores, OpShops, eBay and Gumtree all sell quality preloved items. Frequently you’ll find never-worn or used-once items for sale and you’ll be saving them from the overflowing charity bins or the landfill.
• If buying someone clothing, you need to know a lot more than just their size. Consider their personal style, what colours suit them, and what you think will fit in with their wardrobe, then buy the best quality garment you can afford. If you can’t answer those questions, it may be best to steer clear of fashion purchases because clothing and accessories can be an incredibly personal decision. But if you’re feeling game, here are a few helpful resources for understanding the environmental and ethical standards of fashion brands and retailers.
• The free Good On You app provides a rating for around 1,000 brands on environment, labour and animal rights issues.
• Oxfam’s Naughty and Nice list tells you which brands publish a list of their factories as a significant step towards transparency.
• Greenpeace’s Detox Report describes which fashion brands avoid dumping chemical pollution into waterways.
• Baptist World Aid’s Fashion Report grades brands on reducing exploitation and forced labour in their supply chains.
• Visit local markets and buy direct from the maker or designer – the gift will be more unique and have a smaller footprint.
• Donate to a charity close to the heart of the gift-recipient (if any of my loved ones are reading this blog, this is on my wish list!).
• If you’re part of a large family or friend group, draw names so each person is only buying for one other person – this allows for more time and thought to be put into that one gift that your loved one will cherish, rather than multiple gifts with less thought put into them because of the time and financial constraints that so many of us feel especially at this time of year.
• Finally, it’s worth considering who you really want to give a gift to and not who you ‘should’ give a gift to. Some of those ‘shoulds’ you’ll still buy something for, but many you won’t, and it’s important to consider why you think you should buy someone a gift.

Seasons Greetings!

xxLisa