Showing posts with label event. Show all posts
Showing posts with label event. Show all posts

Tuesday, 23 April 2019

fashion revolution 2019

It's hard to believe it's been six years since the deadly Rana Plaza collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh, claimed the lives of 1,138 garment workers, most of them young women.

On the one hand, the perils (and realities) of garment production are incredibly well known. It's not uncommon for people to joke about their clothing "probably being made in a sweatshop", followed by uncomfortable laughter. Whether the Nike scandal of the 1990s springs to mind, images of scruffy children working in the first textile factories of the Industrial Revolution, or the below image of Rana Plaza, somehow we have come to accept that our clothing is made under terrible conditions.


There are so many reasons why this has come to be. The physical and (often) cultural disconnect between the people who make our clothes and ourselves is a primary reason why we can push these images out of our minds when buying new clothing. Not to mention the impact of advertising, fashion promotion, and the mode and speed of consumption which is completely ingrained in our culture and provides further reason to disconnect.

But...things are changing.

This is Fashion Revolution Week, a time to reflect on who makes our clothes, question brands on their production methods, and learn new ways of using and consuming clothing (which are often old ways!). The Fashion Revolution campaign started on the one-year anniversary of the Rana Plaza collapse, and since then has grown into an international phenomenon (so much so that I am giving a lecture on its impact as part of a "Hashtag Activism" class at Sydney Uni next month).



Since the campaign launched in 2014 countless events and activities have occurred that are shaking up the fashion industry. Alongside the #WhoMadeMyClothes social media campaign have been clothes swaps, film screenings, clothing repair workshops, panel discussions, op shop tours and more. And the industry is taking note. There is increasing transparency from fashion brands worldwide, particularly at the final stage of production (this is the location that is noted on your clothing tag as the "Made In" country).

Look, as Fashion Revolution points out, the industry is far from transparent. In their first Transparency Index in 2017 the average level of transparency was 21% (see all the details and methodology on their website). But in 2018 when they measured again, there had been a 5% improvement, which is fantastic.

Similarly, the Ethical Fashion Report by Baptist World Aid has demonstrated some movement in the industry. While there is vast room for improvement, as this article by Peppermint highlights, the pressure put on fashion brands by consumers and the media is having a positive impact.

But this progress will only continue if we continue to agitate. We can't stop asking #WhoMadeMyClothes? We can't stop thinking about our clothing consumption choices, and wondering why we are buying what we buy. We can't become complacent about what materials are used in our clothing, or under what conditions they are created. As I mentioned to my students last week, changing this industry is like turning a giant boat - progress may feel slow, but continued effort is genuinely having an impact, so we have to keep pushing.

So what can you do?

  • Engage with brands on social media by taking a photo of your clothing, tag the brands you are wearing and ask them "#WhoMadeMyClothes?
  • Write a letter to a brand asking them about production, and what changes they are making for worker safety & pay, as well as environmental improvements.
  • Write to a policy maker asking for stronger support of ethical fashion production.
  • Write a love story to one of your pieces of clothing and share it online.
  • Participate in a #haulternative by swapping, op shopping or repairing your clothing. 
There are tips and tools for all of the above on the Fashion Revolution website.

If you are local in Australia (or New Zealand!) check out all the events happening in our region on the local Facebook Page.

I'll be participating at a panel on the 4th of May called "Rethink your wardrobe" (a bit after Fash Rev week, but let's keep this Revolution going, right?!) at Petersham Town Hall - looks like quite a line up and will be a fabulous swap!

What are you going to do for Fashion Revolution Week?

xxLisa

Monday, 31 July 2017

aloha good day girl

This weekend I had the absolute pleasure of attending Good Day Girl's Summer fashion show. (If you haven't heard of them already, check out this post I wrote about their incredible business model earlier this year.)


This may have been the most fun I've had a fashion show ever. There was such a good vibe in the room, which was filled with their dedicated clients, and Sophie and Alexia turned on the charm with tiki-themed music and cheeky pineapple sunglasses (you can spot a few atop the heads of the guests above!) as they told us about the collection, their collaborations, and their use of sustainable materials.

This top was definitely one of my faves - and the cute
tote is by Made in Mada, handwoven raffia as part of
a Fairtrade certified organisation in Madagascar.

One of my favourite elements of the show was that clients were able to feel the fabrics of the various looks - this was not fashion for fashion's sake, but fashion for people who love to wear beautiful clothing, and reminded me how much Alexia and Sophie understand how women choose clothing. What is the first thing you do when you see something you love? You reach out to feel the fabric, of course (followed by a glance at the price tag, but we feel the fabric first...).

The cupro fabric was an absolute show-stealer. Looks,
feels & wears like silk but is made of a cotton 'waste' product.

I also loved the diversity of the three models showing the collection - a beautiful reminder that beautiful clothes are for every one, no matter your shape, age or ethnicity. Thank you, Sophie and Alexia!

The scarf featured here is part of their collaboration
with Cloth & Co, hand-loomed silk and cotton - pure luxury.


I wish I had better pictures for you, but I was not on my A-game. Check out the entire summer collection on their website, and if you're in Sydney, Melbourne or Perth, schedule yourself in for a private styling session to view and try on the collection in person.

Sydney: 31 July - 19 August
Melbourne: 21 - 23 August
Perth: 24 - 26 August

Once you've made your selection and been measured up, your made-to-order beauties will be created just for you and delivered just in time for summer.


Bring on the heat!
xxLisa

Wednesday, 14 June 2017

future of fashion manifesto

A few weeks ago I was asked to participate in a fabulous conference titled Hacking the Anthropocene*.

The structure of the conference meant that many short "hacks" were presented to the group - creative and outside-the-square thoughts to help us work toward productive environmental actions/solutions/ideas.

I was invited to present a hack on the topic of fashion and "weathering" - how do we weather the impending climate crisis? What role does fashion play during uncertain times?

I decided my 7 minute hack would be a manifesto for the future of fashion. There are plenty of other fashion manifestos, (see for example Mistra's Future Fashion Manifesto, Li Edelkoort's Anti-Fashion Manifesto, and Greenpeace's Detox Fashion Manifesto) So why write another one? I was influenced by all of these, but also wanted to consider my own research with the Australian sustainable fashion movement and spell out more clearly what I felt were the truly revolutionary ideas. I also wanted to think about what is productive about fashion - I don't want to change it entirely, but instead consider the best elements of fashion that we can use to our advantage. Below I've included excerpts from my presentation, including the key points of my manifesto.

This manifesto is by no means complete. In fact, I'd love your input. I don't think that one person, or even one organisation, can write an effective manifesto for the future of fashion. So consider this a starting point and an invitation - read it, ponder it, and share your thoughts with me. I think we can create something really powerful if we all put our heads together.

* * * *
 What to Wear to Weather the End of the World as We Know It
In 2015 trend forecaster Li Edelkoort declared “fashion is dead” in her Anti-Fashion Manifesto. She suggested the industry has become too insular, students are only taught to be individualistic catwalk designers, the pace has accelerated too rapidly, textile design skills have been lost, sweatshops plague the industry, and fashion bloggers have taken over true fashion critique.

I agree with many of her grumblings about the industry, but I disagree with Edelkoort’s conclusion that we should distance ourselves from "fashion" and focus on "clothing". I don’t think fashion will ever be dead, and I don’t think we should want it to be, either. It is far more productive to consider the creativity and innovation that are hallmarks of fashion as invaluable skills for solving the many shortcomings of the industry, particularly the social and environmental devastation it causes.

These productive traits of fashion are also useful for weathering the end of the world as we know it – which itself is an ideal time to change the way things are done.  Depending on where one lives, weathering the future storms will include adjustments to warmer or colder, wetter or dryer climates, as well as socio-political upheaval. Future fashion solutions may be able to offer both physical and social comfort as we adjust to uncertain times.

Future of Fashion : A Manifesto
  1. (Re)Create
    Rethinking waste is one of the most impactful means of weathering a future with overflowing landfills. Experimental label Maison Briz Vegas was influenced in part by Gay Hawkins’ Ethics of Waste and actively work with waste to overcome the guilt associated with it and work towards an enchantment with waste. As Carla Binotto, one half of the duo explains, “A constant motivation for the two designers is transforming the humble and discarded into something rich and beautiful.” The pieces are created with secondhand clothing that are broken down, block printed by hand, and recreated into new pieces, often embellished with other waste including plastic bags and milk cartons.



    Other examples of (re)creating with waste include labels that use excess, deadstock or offcut fabric, like Sheila Forever (pictured below), and the recycling of waste into new fibers, including brands like Patagonia, Teeki, and Adidas in using recycled plastic bottles and ocean waste in their polyester fibers.



  2. Collaborative Kinship
    Weathering an unstable future will be made possible by forming strong social bonds – in the fashion industry this can be seen through collaborative kinship - viewing others as partners in a way forward, not strictly as competitors.

    Patagonia has broken tradition when it comes to dealing with the competition. When the organisation engineered new wetsuit material using a natural rubber called Yulex, which is made from tapping trees in sustainably managed forests, they shared the technology via open-source so their competitors. This way any brand that wanted could make a wetsuit with a significantly smaller footprint when compared with the usual neoprene.



    In my research with the sustainable fashion industry in Australia I have found collaboration to be a hallmark of the movement.  Sometimes this is at the top of the market, but primarily amongst entrepreneurs who work together in a range of activities to further the cause of sustainable fashion. This is also represented by the generosity of the labels sharing time and samples with me – an activist researcher – as we all pull together to create change.
  3. Clothes for Living
    Creating clothes for living and designing outside of trends is a powerful tool, including designing and constructing quality garments meant to last. Engendering a sense of pride in quality pieces and a confident, stable style is a revolutionary act to counter the endless changes of style from today’s fast fashion market.

    Australian label Pure Pod operates in this way, creating high quality pieces designed to outlast seasonal trends that make the wearer feel great about themselves.



  4. Clear Connections
    “Transparency” has become a buzzword as fashion brands start to uncover their deep, global and complex supply chains. But a truly sustainable future of fashion means not only knowing who and where your suppliers are, but forming connections with them.

    Carlie Ballard's eponymous label demonstrates the potential of creating connections with her producers. Through regular visits and frequent communication with the team on the ground her pieces created to the standard she needs and she also has learned how the team prefers to work and has adjusted accordingly. Since there is regular and clear communication, the team in India also feel comfortable sharing their knowledge with Ballard regarding technical aspects of weaving, dyeing, or tailoring that may add cost and/or time to her production. The mutual respect between designer and producer offers a connection on a deeper than merely having traceable supplier lists.


  5. Challenge & Provoke
    The creativity of fashion can be used to provoke new ways of thinking about the world. Maison Briz Vegas offers an ideal example of this through their poetics of waste, which provokes the viewer of the garments and challenges her notions of waste. Feathers made of plastic bags, sequins and embellishments made of trash, and secondhand clothing block printed all provoke new thinking not only about the way we view fashion, but the way we view waste – provoking fashion leads to provoking thoughts about life.


In closing – fashion is part of life. To claim it is “dead” and should be forgotten neglects the magic it offers and its impact on how we view the world. Let’s not toss it all away, calling it frivolous, wasteful or self-serving.  Tapping into creativity is essential for weathering the climate crisis. Inspiration for responses to the Anthropocene can and must come from all aspects of social life, and fashion offers a prime opportunity to provoke new ways of thinking through its ability to attract, bewilder and inspire.

* * * *

So, what do you think? What would you add or change? Share your ideas and together we can create a more complete manifesto.

I also want to say another big thank you to the labels who generously provided samples for me to have on hand at the conference - it made all the difference for the attendees to see up close the possibilities and beauty of sustainable fashion.

THANK YOU:
Pure Pod, Patagonia, Carlie Ballard, Sheila Forever, and Maison Briz Vegas.

xxLisa



*In case you haven't heard of the term, 'Anthropocene' is what we are calling this current geological and climate age - the era during which human activity has had the greatest impact on the earth and climate.

Tuesday, 24 May 2016

Clean Cut Future Talks 2

Last week marked the third appearance of Clean Cut at Sydney's premier fashion event - Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Unlike CC's inaugural appearance, when I helped launch the company and we hosted a sustainable fashion runway, I had the pleasure of simply being a guest at this year's panel discussion/seminar.

The Future Talks 2 panel was hosted by the charming Kellie Hush, Editor of Harper's BAZAAR Australia, and featured representatives from Country Road, Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA) and TOME.

L to R: Anna Scott from Clean Cut, Kellie Hush, Lucy King of Country Road,
Sigrid McCarthy of ECA, Ramon Martin of TOME.
You can watch the entire talk online.

Hush opened the talk with the infamous Vivienne Westwood quote, always worth repeating:
Buy Less. Choose Well. Make it last. Quality, not quantity. Everybody's buying far too many clothes.
The panel offered up genuine insights about what is means for a fashion brand to be, or become, 'sustainable'. The message of the day? Sustainability is a journey. Sure, some of it's hard, and some of it will take awhile to figure out, but it's better to get started than to worry about being 'perfectly sustainable' (as if such a thing exists).

Interestingly, this is what I tell people in my book and events - it's best to simply start somewhere. The perfect is the enemy of the good, they say, and it seems that this advice rings true whether we're talking about one person's lifestyle, or an entire fashion brand.

New designers were given the advice to regularly talk about sustainability in order to remain connected to their goal. Encouragement to 'walk your talk', so to speak. Hand-in-hand with this advice is the importance of knowing why you're producing in this way. Branding has moved way beyond product now, customers buy into the "soul of your brand" and want to feel good on multiple levels when wearing your clothes.

The panel also highlighted that you cannot rely on 'story' or 'branding' alone - design remains as important as ever. As Ramon from TOME put it, "The responsibility is ours. If you can put together a [successful] sustainable collection without telling your customer the story, you're a really great designer."

Another message from the panel was the importance of collaboration. Ramon from TOME spoke of the importance of sharing sustainability ideas and information amongst other designers, and Lucy from Country Road explained that even though this can feel awkward - most of the time retailers and fashion brands do NOT wish to share supply chain secrets with one another - in order to truly change the way clothing is produced retailers and brands must come together, share knowledge, and collaborate.

Finally, the audience was reminded that "design is a central figure in the supply chain process," and that designers have to decide they are going to change the system and create a supply chain that works for them and aligns with their sustainability values.

The message that resonated with many of us in the audience came from Ramon of TOME, and are the words I'll leave you with today as my optimistic hope for the future of fashion:
When people look back in time, this is what fashion was in the early 21st Century. It wasn't about high hemlines or a miniskirt, it was about changing the way we make clothes.

Were you at the Clean Cut Future Talks 2? What did you take note of? What would you ask the panel if you could?

Monday, 7 March 2016

sustainability with style workshop

Over the weekend I had the absolute pleasure of hosting a 'Sustainability with Style' workshop with Willoughby Council that included a field trip to the local Salvos in Chatswood.

Back in December I hosted similar workshops with Manly Council that included op shopping, markets and a clothes swap.

A bit of the poster for the Manly Council workshops.

I love that these councils are dedicated to engaging with people in their communities in various ways about how we, as individuals, can make a difference through our personal choices. As a Manly resident I have attended these workshops, most recently a 'composting in apartments' workshop, and it was a privilege to share my knowledge about fashion and sustainability with others.

The remains of the Manly Council clothes swap.

And a huge thank you to the people who attended the workshops. I am always left feeling energized after meeting people such as yourselves who are engaged in learning and taking action. (And I'm happy to report that most of the crew from Saturday walked away from the Salvos with some fabulous secondhand finds - they got a bargain, and the Salvos earned some money to support their causes).

The group hearing from the Chatswood Salvos manager about the shop.

If your community group, council, school, or other gather would like me to come and talk about fashion and sustainability, drop me a line on Twitter or send me an email.

Have a great week!
xLisa

Monday, 30 November 2015

peoples climate movement

This past weekend, in cities all around the globe, hundreds of thousands of people marched for climate action ahead of the United Nations climate summit in Paris.

Looking across the crowd to the stage in the Domain
photo: Stephen Blake

I participated in the People's Climate March in Sydney yesterday - me and 60,000 of my dearest Sydney friends!

Me and Ty on the right, with our friends James (left) and Yatu (to my left)
and Yatu's parents, who have been taking Yatu to marches since she was a
wee little thing. They once dressed her in a shirt that read
"I want to grow up, not blow up"to protest nuclear energy. It was
amazing to be with such dedicated and experienced protestors!

Compared to the first climate march that I attended in Sydney (which I wrote about in my book, it must have been in 2008 or 2009), yesterday's march was of epic proportions, at least 10 times the size, and representing a much wider diversity of people from all corners of Sydney (and potentially farther afield).

Many Indigenous cultures were represented at the rally, and those wearing red
were representing people already on the frontlines of climate change.
photo: Stephen Blake

Photo: Stephen Blake

The rally began in the Domain and included a number of speeches and performances, including 1 Million Women's new song, "I am the Voice"*, and the always-inspirational Tim Flannery.

We all participated in a minute of silence in honour of those already facing
the impact of climate change, and then march officially began following
the playing of didgeridoo.   Photo: Stephen Blake

As the temperatures creeped higher - and the predicted thunderstorms failed to appear - the march began underneath Sydney sunshine and we benefited from the delicious breeze coming up from Sydney Harbour. Organised by colour - dress for your climate change passion - there was no shortage of music, dancing, chanting, signs and costumes, and there was an overall sense of community amongst our fellow Sydneysiders.

Photo: Stephen Blake
 
Photo: Stephen Blake
 
Clover Moore spoke at the start of the rally
Photo: Stephen Blake

Any excuse to wear an animal onesie, right?
Photo: Stephen Blake

Many people participating were protesting other social justice causes, too.
Photo: Stephen Blake

These beautiful girls represented 'Our common home', sporting green
in honour of all the species on planet Earth.
Photo: Stephen Blake

And speaking for myself, I felt enormous gratitude about living in a country that allows peaceful protests like this one, pride in my fellow citizens who turned out in huge numbers, and increased optimism about the future.

Photo: Stephen Blake

I love this not-so-subtle use of parental guilt.
Photo: Stephen Blake

'Stop polluting' - couldn't have said it better myself.
Photo: Stephen Blake


There's still so much work to do, and I hope that the world's political leaders make meaningful and impactful agreements over the next two weeks in Paris. But whatever happens at the Climate Summt, the People of the world have spoken. An increasing number of us are determined to shift towards a future based on clean energy, a fairer economic system and a healthier environment for all the planet's inhabitants. As the rally cry from yesterday's march exclaimed:  

from here on in, we're all in

It's not just for hippies anymore!
Photo: Stephen Blake

But what would a climate rally be without them?
Photo: Stephen Blake


Were you at a People's Climate event this weekend? I'd love to hear about it!

* * * *

A special THANK YOU to Stephen Blake for letting me use his amazing photographs in today's blog post - I only had my phone and was too busy chanting to take photos. He captured the atmosphere perfectly.

*A cleaver re-write of the Australian John Farnham classic "You're the Voice"

Thursday, 5 November 2015

film review : this changes everything

I love celebrating sustainable frocks and examining the pros and cons of fast fashion labels dabbling in environmentalism as much as the next gal, but today I'm compelled to write about my ultimate passion - addressing climate change.

Last night I saw the film This Changes Everything, and was reminded about the power of people and the importance of activism.

Loving the revolutionary graphics
on the movie poster

Naomi Klein opens her film with a confession - that she sort of hates environmentalist movies, and is tired of seeing polar bears struggling to find a bit of ice, like this:

image credit: endangeredpolarbear.com

Klein has been a longtime role model of mine and I was delighted to hear that she and I feel the same way about these polar bears.

Of course I love polar bears, and am devastated about what is happening to their natural habitat, and yet - as Klein highlights in the film - their world could not be more different from the world I live in, and the time has come to change the story about how we talk about, and deal with, climate change.

This film is directed by Avi Lewis, is inspired by Klein's book of the same title*, and is meant to move away from scaring people or making us feel guilty, and instead to help us feel empowered. As far as I'm concerned - job well done.

Klein on the ground in New York
copyright Ed Kashi

Throughout the film we meet a number of activists from around the world fighting industry and government to take back the land.

March in Sompeta, India

I'm not sure which story I found most inspiring - the people in Andhra Pradesh, India, who engaged in dangerous action against a proposed coal mine in their wetlands, Crystal from the Beaver Lake Cree First Nation in Canada trying to gain access to ancestral lands, the passion of the Greek protestors, or the determination of so many people marching and protesting around the globe for justice on a range of environmental issues.

Protestors in Halkidiki, Greece

Ultimately the film suggests that we do have the power to change the story - we can either let outdated thinking and a broken economic model drive us toward an uninhabitable planet, or we can take charge and design a world that is cleaner and more just for all.

Will there be push back?

Oh yeah.

Just take a look at what happens at the climate conference hosted by the short-sighted, ultra-conservative Heartland Institute and you'll see the levels of greed and denial that we are up against (I'm still wondering how filmmakers got access and approval to release the footage!).

Nevertheless, the time to act couldn't be more pressing.

I'm starting by joining the People's Climate March taking place in Australia 27-29 November. Taking place just before world leaders meet in Paris for the annual United Nations climate summit, marches will occur in major cities around the world to demand a transition to renewable energy, secure job creation, clear air and a healthy environment.

It's been far too long since I pounded the pavement and raised my voice for my cause. I walked away from the film screening last night with an ache in my heart for not being more present on the ground over the past couple of years. My activist-soul cannot wait for the 29th of November, when I hope I'll see you Sydneysiders at our march in the Domain. If not there, find a march near you, and we can send a united message to world leaders that the time for action is now.

xLisa


*Confession time for me - I haven't read it yet! It's somewhere on my long-list of 'must read for PhD' books. I promise I'll get to it.

Monday, 19 October 2015

Undressed in Sydney

No, I wasn't walking around Sydney in the nude this weekend . . . I attended the lovely Undress Runways, the first year this sustainable fashion event has been held in Sydney.

Pure Pod

I was so happy to finally attend this important event, and thrilled to know that sustainable fashion is growing to the extent that Undress were able to bring the shows to Sydney and Melbourne, in addition to Brisbane where it originated, in just a few short years.

Fabled & True

I had received my tickets as my crowdfunding 'reward' for supporting the forthcoming Good On You fashion rating app (how great are crowdfunding rewards?!), and was thrilled to be sitting in the front row with my friend (and research supervisor!) Natalya alongside the hardworking Good On You Sydney team. I'd also 'commuted' to the Double Bay event with my dear pal, Yatu, from All For Good, and sat near Mel from Fashion Revolution Day Aus/NZ. It's always so great to be able to celebrate Australia's sustainable fashion scene and catch up with fellow sustainable fashion champions.

Pure Pod

My photos from the night did not turn out well, so I've taken these images from the Brisbane show. These are just some of my favourite looks from the night. For me, the standouts were Pure Pod, Alice Nightingale and Fabled & True, and some beautiful swimwear by Koru, but it was great to see such a range of styles, and a few options for the men, too.

Cash Berry

Fabled & True

Koru

Cameron & James

Alice Nightingale

Alice Nightingale

Pure Pod

It was wonderful to see such diversity celebrated on the catwalk (though there was one model in Sydney that raised a number of concerned eyebrows in the crowd due to her extreme thinness), and during the final show of the night - a special collection by Prophetik by Jeff Garner out of the US - there was a gorgeous folk singer who was wearing a Prophetik dress that had been worn by Taylor Swift during the RED tour. Sustainable fashion, pop culture and folk music all in one? Delightful!

I sure wish I caught her name! It's Bridget something . . .
gorgeous voice, delightful personality, and a brilliant
way to wrap up Undress Sydney.

All in all a wonderful night out seeing some gorgeous fashion and connecting with good friends - can't really ask for more of a Saturday night, if you ask me.

xLisa