mainstreaming sustainability

Hi there!

Today's blog post title is actually the same title as one of the chapter's in my thesis, which I'm desperately trying to complete by the middle of the year. Wish me luck! So you may not see as much from me in the coming months while I prioritise that very important project.

Today I was struck by this short article in Retail Wire asking, "When will sustainable fashion go mainstream?" It was specifically discussing H&M's Conscious Collection, which you know I have some qualms about. At the end of the brief article the author asks for comments and thoughts as to whether sustainable fashion will enter the mainstream, and the biggest factors to addressing this shift.

Here's my (quickly drafted!) response:

Sustainable fashion will undoubtedly continue to gain traction in coming years. H&M's Conscious Collection plays a major role in raising awareness of sustainable fashion, yet their overall business model will preclude that organization from becoming truly sustainable.

Contrary to some previous comments, many sustainable fibers have a better look and texture than the synthetics and blends that have come to mark much of the fashion industry in recent decades; this is especially true when comparing to H&M's (and other fast fashion retailer's) standard lines in which the fabric pills and breaks apart after a few washes. Fabrics including organic cotton, wool, silk, hemp-blends and others have greater longevity, and Tencel/Modal offers draping and texture found in synthetic rayon/viscose products without the environmental footprint. 

Sustainable fashion designers are already addressing fabric innovations and style, and in my experience as a sustainable fashion writer and researcher, price will remain a primary barrier because consumers are not used to paying a complete or true cost of fashion.  In addition, the rapid change of styles encouraged by many retailers will have to adjust so consumers do not feel the need to buy new pieces as frequently, or dispose of the old.

We cannot solve 'sustainable fashion' with a 'fast fashion' business model - it's not only fabrics, style and texture, but quality, price and tempering the desire to consume.

However, in agreement with other comments, the millenials are all over this, and are demanding sustainable, stylish, quality and lasting clothing. It's not an unsolvable problem, but it likely won't be solved by the likes of H&M or their Conscious Collection alone.

What are your thoughts? I'd love to hear them! The above was a quick 'brain-dump' style response, and I'm sure there are more thoughtful ideas to consider.

Comment here or on their article to keep this conversation going and ensure the future of fashion is undoubtedly sustainable.

2017 predictions

Pure Pod at Undress Runways

I was recently asked for my predictions for ethical fashion in 2017.

It's a tough question. It's like being asked to look into the future when we all know that there is no 'sure thing' in life. Just look at the 2016 US Presidential election predictions; all the so-called 'experts' and political pundits were so very wrong, and many of them have more years experience in politics than I have in sustainable fashion. Because the truth is, we just never know what is coming around the corner, and it's hard to know what we don't know.

Sure, I have some expertise in ethical fashion, especially regarding consumer habits, social movements and the workings of fashion businesses. But I don't know what is currently under development in innovation labs,  which labour market may take a leap forward, what budding changemakers will graduate design school this year, or which governmental regulations will be proposed that dramatically impact production, trade, or consumption of fashion.

So I'd rather we use the term 'hope-predictions', instead. This term encompasses recognition of my expertise, my optimism for the future, plus a healthy dose of acceptance that I don't have all the answers.

Lisa's 2017 hope-predictions for Sustainable Fashion

• 2017 will bring more growth in the sustainable fashion sector, particularly from entrepreneurs and new businesses who recognise the vast consumer demand for ethical, transparent and planet-friendly fashion. I think we will continue to see design progress both in terms of aesthetic styling as well as innovations such as zero/less-waste patterning, upscaling the practice of upcycling, more fabric innovations, and more engagement with the sharing economy. The trend toward small-run artisanal and bespoke pieces will also continue as more individuals choose to hone their personal style and focus on curating a somewhat minimal, yet still unique and fashion-forward, wardrobe. 
• The major brands will continue making shifts be less unsustainable by experimenting with sustainable fabrics and/or improving transparency in their supply chains. There is enormous potential for the larger labels to make significant positive impacts throughout the supply chain, yet consumers and activists should maintain pressure on these companies to encourage firms to change faster than they may think is possible. The major brands that are able to make bold steps and communicate them openly and transparently will be rewarded by the growing group of ethical consumers who care deeply about these issues.
• In light of global political events, 2017 will bring increased activism throughout society as people brimming with frustration seek outlets for their desire to create change. Enacting values through lifestyle and consumption choices will play a major role for many citizens because this is something we each have individual control over. This should manifest itself (to an extent) in the sustainable fashion movement, which will encourage everyone - from start-ups to established brands - to continue towards sustainable fashion practices. Activism is always more fun (and effective!) when done with others, and NGOs and other groups working in this space should grasp the opportunity to facilitate larger scale projects with this group of engaged and energised citizens at this unique point in history.

What do you think?

Do you agree? Disagree? Have anything to add?

Leave a comment below - I'd love to hear your hope-predictions at this fascinating time for ethical and sustainable fashion.

xxLisa

book review : eating the ocean

What did you get up to over the holidays?

I ate a lot, swam a lot, enjoyed not sitting in front of a computer, and caught up on some reading, including Eating the Ocean, by Elspeth Probyn (who happens to be my Associate Supervisor at the University of Sydney).

Reading Eating the Ocean while at the ocean - the best place to read!

I absolutely devoured this book (pun very much intended) and learned a lot about how entangled we humans are with fish, the ocean, and the world's fisheries. Eloquently written, Probyn's vivid detail brings us along her journeys following (and eating many) oysters, swimming with tuna, covertly eating endangered bluefin tuna, and tracking the history of herring quines and women's roles in fishing. She encourages us to consider not just the ocean and all its inhabitants, but the people "who spend their lives in and on the sea" in her quest to "figure a different kind of relating of people, oceans and fish."

Probyn takes as a jumping-off point marine science descriptions of our 'simplifed sea' - because we have fished through the food web to the detriment of biodiversity - to challenge assumptions on sustainability because, as she suggests, "what constitutes sustainability is a fraught and complex set of issues."

For instance, have you ever wondered why it seems harder to care about tuna compared to a panda. Is it because, as Probyn suggests, "It's hard, though not impossible, to cuddle a fish"? WWF and Sea Shepherd both thought so when they launched the below campaigns (both discussed in the book).

 

And through her story of Loch Fyne Oysters in Scotland my own assumption that 'employee-owned is better than corporate-owned' was challenged when employees exhibited a visible look of relief at no longer having major financial stress after the company was bought out, and the town continued to have a near-zero unemployment rate thanks to the success of the business.

I was particularly struck by her description of swimming "on the water rather than in the water", most definitely my mode of swimming. I tend to stay halfway in and halfway out, floating on the top, looking down on the sea and its life below. But what might I learn by swimming in the water? How would my perspectives change if I just dove a little deeper and thought with the ocean, rather than about it? If I was lucky, I'd come to similar conclusions as Probyn about the "relatedness of all entities" and reconsider my own consumption habits (seafood or otherwise).

This book is so much more than a dictate on "eat this, don't eat that" that so many sustainability experts offer (including plenty of my own suggestions!), and she successfully avoids moral overtones throughout the book. But when Probyn is asked by people what we should be eating, she does have an answer, it "is always little fish - those that reproduce quickly, don't live too long, and humble and abase our gargantuan appetites for the disappearing top predators of the ocean". There are human health benefits as well as oceanic biodiversity benefits of this suggestion - you may even reconsider popping another Omega-3 tablet and reaching for a tin of sardines instead. If you're like me, you'll feel compelled to heed Probyn's advice to "eat the ocean better" and "to eat with the ocean".

I've greatly oversimplified the content of this book, offering a teaser to encourage you to read it yourself. I learned so much about the state of our oceans, where our seafood comes from, the danger in always choosing tuna and salmon, and the role of aquaculture (which provides more than half of all seafood consumed by humans!), but most importantly, I was encouraged to think differently about what 'sustainability' means, which I think is so important as a person who works in this sphere.

Now - off to make some lunch. I think I'll have a salad with some anchovies.

sustainable vintage style

This week I was delighted to don my favourite pink party dress and be interviewed by my colleague at the University of Sydney, the smart and charming Tara Moss, for her Victory Lamour blog. Below is a brief excerpt and a link to her website.

‘One of the most important things we can all do is to love our clothes and take good care of them…mending something when it’s been damaged.’ – Lisa Heinze

Happy new year!

For the first blog of 2017 I thought I would visit one of my passions, and resolutions – to be kinder to the environment. I’m no eco angel, but I have been drawn to vintage for aesthetic and historical as well as ethical reasons. Every time I buy, trade, sell and repair or mend vintage, whether it is a 1950s dress or a 1960s caravan, I feel like I am investing not only in something built to last, as most things were in that time, but in something that has a lighter footprint on the planet because new materials have not been needed to produce it.

This matters with clothing, perhaps more than most of us realise.

In the mid century, particularly during WW2 when ‘make do and mend‘ was a national priority and strict rations impacted every day people, recycling, re-using and mending was down to an art form. There were multiple handbooks on the subject, and members of each household took time to mend and fix the family’s things, whether it was the radio or a pair of trousers. Today there are many millions – billions even – of kilos of discarded clothing on the planet. In fact, journalist Lucy Seigle points out that 80 billion new garments are produced globally every year. (You can check out my interview with Lucy here.)

Continue reading on the Victory Lamour website. 

happy

And that's a wrap! Signing off for 2016, and what a year it's been.

I'm using this holiday season to power down, spend time with loved ones, explore the great outdoors, and generally rest and refuel, ready for another year of hard work in 2017. I think it's safe to say the environmental and justice movements will need our strength more than ever following the global shifts toward conservatism (not to be confused with conservation!).

Wherever you are, and whatever you celebrate, sending you and yours warm wishes this holiday season.

Photo copyright Think Make Share blog

 xxLisa

the thought counts in sustainable gift-giving

Hi All~

The silly season is well and truly upon us, even if many of us (myself included!) are still wrapped up with our usually busy schedules.

I want to thank you all for your continued support and readership over the years, and wish you and your friends a joyous holiday season, wherever you are and whatever you may celebrate at this time of year.

I want to share with you a blog post I wrote for the Sydney Environment Institute in case any of your are frantically worry about gift-giving at this time of year.

The holiday season can bring a lot of gift-related angst, can’t it? All the questions about who you should get something for, what they may want, how much to spend, and where to find the time to do it all can feel incredibly overwhelming. Not to mention the guilt felt when you receive a gift you don’t really love. Then there are the environmental and ethical implications of gift giving – not only because of the (often) harmful production of goods, but also because of the excess donations taken to charity shops during the holiday season.

Whether they are unwanted gifts or a donation of last year’s sundresses that have been replaced by this year’s style, there is a surge of donations that cost charity shops millions of dollars to sort and dispose at this time of year. But there is also a lot of joy associated with gift-giving. We communicate our love for people through gifts, show people that we understand who they are and what they love, and even help people through hard times. So instead of a completely minimalist approach to the season, I’d like to think we can find a realistic and sustainable balance during the holidays through more mindful gift giving. Think “It’s the thought that counts” with emphasis on the ‘thought’:

• Seek sustainable alternatives to the gifts you want to give – from Fairtrade organic chocolates to ethically-produced fashion, there are sustainable choices for nearly everything. Often all it takes is a quick online search or a visit to Fairtrade store and you’ll have beautiful options at your fingertips.
• Really think about the gift recipient. What do you know about them and what might they love to receive? Even the most eco-friendly or ethical gift in the world can quickly become rubbish if it’s not something desired by the recipient.
• Vintage stores, OpShops, eBay and Gumtree all sell quality preloved items. Frequently you’ll find never-worn or used-once items for sale and you’ll be saving them from the overflowing charity bins or the landfill.
• If buying someone clothing, you need to know a lot more than just their size. Consider their personal style, what colours suit them, and what you think will fit in with their wardrobe, then buy the best quality garment you can afford. If you can’t answer those questions, it may be best to steer clear of fashion purchases because clothing and accessories can be an incredibly personal decision. But if you’re feeling game, here are a few helpful resources for understanding the environmental and ethical standards of fashion brands and retailers.
• The free Good On You app provides a rating for around 1,000 brands on environment, labour and animal rights issues.
• Oxfam’s Naughty and Nice list tells you which brands publish a list of their factories as a significant step towards transparency.
• Greenpeace’s Detox Report describes which fashion brands avoid dumping chemical pollution into waterways.
• Baptist World Aid’s Fashion Report grades brands on reducing exploitation and forced labour in their supply chains.
• Visit local markets and buy direct from the maker or designer – the gift will be more unique and have a smaller footprint.
• Donate to a charity close to the heart of the gift-recipient (if any of my loved ones are reading this blog, this is on my wish list!).
• If you’re part of a large family or friend group, draw names so each person is only buying for one other person – this allows for more time and thought to be put into that one gift that your loved one will cherish, rather than multiple gifts with less thought put into them because of the time and financial constraints that so many of us feel especially at this time of year.
• Finally, it’s worth considering who you really want to give a gift to and not who you ‘should’ give a gift to. Some of those ‘shoulds’ you’ll still buy something for, but many you won’t, and it’s important to consider why you think you should buy someone a gift.

Seasons Greetings!

xxLisa

ethical shopping made easy

Hey! You up there. My North American friends - this post is especially for you!

Those of us down here in Australia have been enjoying the Good On You app for over a year now, and I can't even begin to explain how much easier it has made shopping for clothing. The Good On You team has been overwhelmed with positive feedback from Australian shoppers, and CEO Gordon Renouf further shared that, "Since we launched in Australia people all over the world have been asking when our app will be available in their country."

Well, you lucky North Americans - now it's your turn.

Say you're out and about and see a gorgeous dress but aren't sure what that label's environmental policy is like - type it into the app and see how they rate.

Or you (or your fella!) are on the hunt for some work attire but you're not sure which brand has stronger labor guidelines to protect garment workers - browse by 'suits' or 'pants' or 'shoes' and see which brands rank highest. The app will even tell you the nearest locations to buy the clothes.

Or maybe you're just curious about the latest news in sustainable fashion - have a read through the articles available on the app.

You're able to dive into greater detail for each brand included in the app to see how they rate on labor, environment and animal welfare, and a brief descriptions on what aspects the brands are doing well, where they can improve, and how Good On You came up with their final ranking.

And - one of my favourite features - you can send your own comments and feedback direct to the brands through the app. Whether it's to thank them for their commitment, urge them to do better, or to ask a specific question, the app makes it easy for you to contact 1000s of brands at the touch of a button.

Sounds too good to be true? Well it's not. But they do need a little help to get things started, and that's where you come in.

Head over to their IndieGoGo page to help fund the launch of the app in your neck of the woods (and also catch a glimpse of me in their crowdfunding video!).  For as little as $5 you can contribute to the app, and with 'perks' ranging from sustainable socks, leggings, shoes and blouses to a workshop with CEO (and ethical fashion and consumer genius) Gordon Renouf, there are winners all around.
 
Check it out now and let me know what you think!
xxLisa